A Beginner's Guide To Pokémon
by Thanos6
Summary: In which Professor Kudzu advises wannabe Pokémon owners on everything they'll need to know about owning and caring for these wonderful creatures. Will also include a profile on every species. Written with a light touch and tongue-in-cheek. Enjoy!
1. Introduction

Hello all. This is my first submission to this site in years.

This is basically a "Pokémon For Dummies" written from an in-universe perspective, telling you everything you need to know about raising them. I owe a major debt of inspiration to Chencheya's "Beginning Trainer's Guide To Pokémon," the sadly unfinished guide that inspired this project. Read it, what there is of it; it's awesome. Also, "The Sun Soul" by 50caliberchaos, the still in-progress fic that inspired me to look at Pokémon from a slightly more realistic point-of-view. Read it too. This, I command!

I'll be updating this hopefully frequently. Constructive criticism and questions encouraged. Reviews get you love.

The usual disclaimer: I don't own Pokémon. If I did, this would be published as a real book.

**A Beginner's Guide To Pokémon**

_By Professor Kudzu_

***Introduction: So You Want To Know About Pokémon**

Maybe you want a bodyguard. Maybe you want someone to help you with some chores around the house. Maybe you just want a new friend. Or maybe one of your children wants to become a Trainer and you need to know about what they (and you!) are getting into.

Whatever the reason, welcome to the world of Pokémon, you'll always be welcome here. This world is large and complex, and newcomers are often intimidated by how much there is to learn.

And so this guide was born, written over a period of several years and with the consultation of several other learned Pokémon professors. What it's NOT is a complete guide to everything there is to know about Pokémon. For any subject mentioned in this book that you'd be interested in learning more about, at the end of each section I have provided a list of further resources.

What is this guide, then? It's meant to tell you what you need to know to properly own and care for a Pokémon, and how to interact with them when you encounter them both in civilization and the wild.

In addition, this book contains a profile of every known Pokémon species, from Abomasnow to Zubat, along with a list of books that will provide you with a more in-depth look at any of them that catch your fancy.

And now, your Pokémon journey is about to begin…!

***What Are Pokémon?**

One of the most common questions that Pokémon researchers have to answer is, just what is a Pokémon? What differentiates it from a normal organism? It's a fair question. At first glance, there doesn't seem to be much that separates a swallow from a Swellow.

To begin with, all Pokémon are closely related. They have incredibly similar genetic codes. Almost every Pokémon can breed with other types to produce viable offspring, which, themselves, can breed (this shall be discussed in greater length in the chapter on breeding). In most cases, this would result in all Pokémon being classified as one species with a massive variety of subspecies, but laypeople attached the term species to each variety and, for good or for ill, it has stuck. All Pokémon are omnivorous; even those that are almost entirely carnivorous or herbivorous will supplement their usual diet with plants or meat from time to time. And they all enjoy berries, as well as special human-made treats, such as Pokéblocks and Poffins.

Pokémon are quite intelligent. Even the dullest species is capable of understanding more human speech than the most intelligent normal animal. They can comprehend and execute complex strategies in the heat of battle. And, although much more research needs to be done in this area, a few certain species have brains best compared to a supercomputer. There is even the possibility that all Pokémon may be sentient, something which has led to the recent halt of the once common practice of feasting on species such as Farfetch'd.

Last but by no means least, Pokémon are powerful. Magikarp is often ridiculed for being weak, but even this "worthless" species is capable of surprisingly strong tackles and flails. In ancient times, wild Pokémon were capable of destroying whole towns, and it is only through the concerted efforts of the world's best trainers and scientists that we've managed to bring them under as much control as we have. Pokémon can do things no "regular" animal could ever dream of doing. A Starly may not look like much more than a typical bird, but no starling could even begin to create a powerful whirlwind that can blow away creatures that weigh up to a ton. Pokémon can read minds, induce sleep, temporarily enhance their strength and speed, trigger lightning, teleport, change the weather, summon meteors, and fire enormously powerful blasts of energy. And that's not even getting into the "legendary Pokémon."

Of course, this immediately raises a question: if Pokémon are so powerful, and are so numerous and widespread, how has humanity even managed to survive, let alone thrive? And why do such intelligent creatures allow themselves to be "owned" and trained by humans?

Calling the relationship between Pokémon and humans complex is about as much of an understatement as calling the universe big. Entire books have been written on the subject and no doubt more will be written. My colleague, Professor Samuel Oak, has devoted his entire life to studying Pokémon-human relations, and he'd be the first to tell you that he's barely scratched the surface. Nevertheless, there are some salient points that I can summarize here.

As noted, Pokémon are much more powerful than humans, but on average, we're roughly of the same intelligence. This seems to have acquired us respect from Pokémon, the fact that we were able to evolve this level of intelligence without enormous levels of power to keep us safe (At least, this is what we've been told by several Psychic Pokémon that we've discussed this with). This is also why they're willing to follow and serve us; out of respect. Either consciously or not, they believe that our survival on essentially pure intelligence without equivalent power makes us worthy of being "in charge." This is also why Pokémon are generally more disposed to stay with a smart abusive trainer than a foolish abusive one (though I could make the case that any abusive trainer is a fool).

***How Should I Begin Raising Pokémon?**

Sadly, far too many people dive head-first into owning Pokémon without doing proper research. Fortunately, you've already shown you're not making that mistake. After all, you're reading this book.

The first bit of advice I'd give you is to read this book all the way through. Pay special attention to the profiles all the various species. Among all the other information included, I have rated each species by ease of ownership, on a scale from 1 to 10. Ideally, you should begin with a Pokémon rated 1, 2, or 3. One of these will give you little-to-no trouble, even with no experience whatsoever. Make sure you find several that appeal to you, just in case you have trouble acquiring your first choice.

If you're lucky enough to live close to a Pokémon Professor such as myself, call and make an appointment. Otherwise, do the same with your local Pokémon Center. Either way, you'll be interviewed. Once you've satisfied the interviewer that you'll be a kind, loving owner, and that you have some idea of what you're talking about, you'll be asked what kind of Pokémon you're interested in. Respond with your choices, making sure to mention which is your first choice. Note that if you ask for a Pokémon that an inexperienced owner has no business caring for, you'll be shot down and likely asked to leave.

If the Professor or Center has any of your preferred choices, you will be escorted to meet them. If not, you'll be told that they will acquire some and will contact you once they have them. Either way, sooner or later you'll meet several Pokémon. Interact with each one a bit, enough to learn what each one's personality is like. Then choose your favorite. You'll have to fill out a little bit of paperwork, pay a small fee, and then your choice will be placed into a Poké Ball and handed over to you. Congratulations, you are now a Pokémon owner.

If you plan to use your Pokémon primarily for battling, an additional note is in order. It's often recommended that a battling trainer begin with a Grass, Fire, or Water-type, and indeed, each region has its own set of traditional "starters" of those three types. Personally, I would recommend choosing Grass; a huge pile of leaves causes much less lasting damage to your home than an out of-control blaze or a torrential flood.

Once they have obtained their starter, most battling trainers frown on receiving other Pokémon in such an "official" way. They generally prefer to capture them on their own, swap them in trades with fellow trainers, or be given them as rewards for services performed during their travels. For those of you who do not battle, however, you may return to the Professor or the Pokémon Center time after time to receive more additions to your household. Unlike cats or dogs, Pokémon can do a very good job looking after themselves, and there is no real "hoarding" problem associated with large amounts of normal pets.

Bear in mind, however, that several Pokémon are very rare and may not be available by such a simple method. You may have to hire an experienced Pokémon trainer to journey into the wild and capture one for you. As these rare Pokémon are typically also very powerful, it is strongly recommended you do not take this step until you have already raised several more common species and have learned the basic ins-and-outs. Also be advised that some Pokémon have such a bad reputation that among capture, you must immediately notify and register them with your local government; these will be marked as such in the profile section of this book.

For Further Information: _The Guide To Pokémon/Human Relations, Vols. 1-83_ (ongoing), by Professor Samuel Oak.


	2. Evolution

**Evolution**

If you want to raise Pokémon successfully, you need to know about evolution. Otherwise you might have a bit of a shock one day when you find that your beloved companion is twice as big or has grown an extra head.

Evolution is the process that occurs when an individual Pokémon changes from one species to another. Strictly speaking, this is not evolution (which occurs among an entire population) but metamorphosis. But much like the confusion over the term "species" itself, this has become the more wide-spread terminology and so I'll stick with it to avoid confusion.

Pokémon evolve through several methods, each of which I'll discuss later in more detail. First, some general notes.

Evolving is a choice that should be left up to each individual Pokémon. _Nine hundred ninety-nine times out of a thousand, never force your Pokémon to evolve_. It will just lead to bad feelings and a rift that may never heal. There's only one situation I can think of where I would recommend forceful evolution: stranded in highly dangerous territory with only one combat-ready Pokémon who, in its current state, may be too weak to fight its way to safety. In that case, if you can induce an evolution to guarantee the well-being of both you and it, I would do so. However, you should never find yourself in this situation. A novice trainer should not make an expedition into such danger, and an experienced trainer should always have extra Pokémon and healing items on hand and an escape route planned out ahead of time.

In all other circumstances, allow your Pokémon to evolve if and when they choose to. By all means, make the offer to them if it's available, but if they refuse, let the matter rest for at least several weeks. By not being pushy, you can make the choice seem more reasonable, and often a Pokémon will change its mind after a period of time to think it over.

Also, it should be noted that some Pokémon are just too stubborn or too attached to their current form to evolve at all (or they'll evolve once but not a second time), and simply cannot be talked around to the idea. You should not hold this against them. A friend of mine owns a Wurmple that has evolved into a Cascoon, and a Cascoon it has remained for the last ten years. He still considers it a valuable companion and friend.

The actual evolution process is surprisingly rapid, especially when compared to non-Pokémon. A caterpillar surrounds itself in a cocoon, where it spends several months slowly and gradually altering its body before emerging as a butterfly. When a Caterpie evolves into a Metapod, it may spend an indefinite period as a Metapod. Unlike the caterpillar, where the cocoon is simply an external covering around the caterpillar, the Metapod is a completely different state of being. Also, while it is a Metapod, there is no massive change, no ongoing metamorphosis. It simply stays as it is until it suddenly begins to change into a Butterfree, a process which typically takes no more than a minute or two, if that. This can be attributed to the extremely adaptable, fast-changing cell structure that all Pokémon, even non-evolving ones, possess.

The change is begun by a genetic trigger that is set off by one of a variety of methods which are discussed below. With a limited number of exceptions, only one method will set off the trigger for each species of Pokémon. Note that once the change has begun, it is not irreversible; should it decide to, the Pokémon can stop the evolution at anytime. Not until the evolution is totally complete is the new shape locked into place.

Aside from a Pokémon not choosing to evolve, a trainer may also ask it to stay in its current form. Keeping it in a "weaker" form may seem counter-productive, but there are several sensible reasons. Perhaps the most obvious is that its owner has become attached to it in its current form, loving it as it already is.

The other reasons tend to apply mostly to trainers who use their Pokémon to battle. A non-evolved individual can develop new attacks and moves much faster than their "more advanced" counterpart, because it will not have had to adjust to a new body. Some lower-stage Pokémon actually have the potential to learn moves they cannot after evolution.

A few species of Pokémon are capable of _branched evolution_, in which they may evolve into several alternate states, instead of simply just one. For example, if exposed to a Water Stone, a Poliwhirl will evolve into a Poliwrath; however, if given a King's Rock, the same Poliwhirl will evolve into a Politoed. Once it has evolved into one of these two species, it cannot evolve into the other, nor can it return into being a Poliwhirl. Evolution is forever.

Evolving is different from when a Pokémon has different _forms_. An evolved state has very significant differences from the original, while a form is largely identical with only minor variations. Evolution, as noted above, is permanent, while a Pokémon can shift between its forms with relative ease.

Halfway between evolutions and forms are _variants_. A variant is, like an evolution, permanent. However, like a form, it is a mostly minor difference. Variances occur not among one individual but among members of a population, such as the East Sea and West Sea variants of Shellos and Gastrodon, the three kinds of Wormadam, the twenty-eight kinds of Unown, and the simply staggering numbers of differently-spotted Spinda.

Here's another note for battling trainers. After your Pokémon has evolved, it will take some time for it to fully adjust to its new state. Let it rest and explore its body for several days. Then let it battle against some fairly weak Pokémon so that it can get used to fighting again, before it finally returns to its old "weight class." This process shouldn't take more than two weeks.

**Leveling Up**

Leveling up (a term first applied to Pokémon by zealous gamers, and one that has stuck among the wider world) is by far the most common method of evolution. To put it simply, leveling up is the process by which a Pokémon becomes stronger, faster, and overall more powerful as it pushes itself to its limits, both physical and mental. When it reaches a certain benchmark, the genetic trigger is activated.

A Pokémon that is a household pet, or that is used for largely domestic chores, may not evolve for years, if at all. On the other hand, one that is primarily a battler may evolve in months or weeks or even, on some very rare occasions, days. If you wish for your non-fighting Pokémon to evolve, take it to the local Pokémon Day Care. These caring experts know just how to train your Pokémon onto the path toward evolution without overly straining them. If this is the first time you've ever left your Pokémon with someone else, be sure to spend some time with it first, comforting and soothing it, reassuring it that you're not abandoning it, and that you will be back soon. You may find that leaving a favored toy or blanket with it at the Day Care will make both you and your Pokémon more comfortable. When you return to pick it up, spoil it rotten for a few days; give it its favorite treats and spend a lot of time showering affection on it.

**Happiness**

Several Pokémon evolve by a rather curious method: by being happy. When they're feeling gloriously happy, reveling in life, the genetic trigger is activated. My colleague, Professor Charles Rowan, is the world's leading expert on evolution. He believes that the happiness trigger came about as a way of making sure that a Pokémon was in a happy, loving relationship with a mate before they evolved. Since all of the known Pokémon that evolve by happiness don't typically breed until after evolution, this is a way to guarantee that the new child will have two strong, caring parents to look after both it and each other.

So how can you make your own Pokémon happy? That's simple. Just treat it like you should. Be kind to it, love it, play with it, and so on. It should hopefully go without saying that even if your Pokémon doesn't evolve through happiness, you should treat it this way anyway. And don't worry; it won't see you as its mate.

**Moves**

A small number of Pokémon only evolve once they have learned certain moves (moves shall be expanded on in the next chapter). Professor Rowan believes that this is for a similar reason as to the happiness trigger. By knowing a certain move (and in every case, it's a strong offensive move) before evolution and breeding, this helps to ensure that a child will have a parent that can protect it.

Your Pokémon should learn the required move naturally as it levels up. On the off-chance it doesn't, you should take it to the move relearner in your region. This expert will be able to tell you if will simply take more time for it to learn, or if it missed its chance. If the latter is true, the relearner can then teach it the required move.

**Location**

For just a bare few Pokémon, evolution comes down to location, location, location. To reach their final states, Magneton and Nosepass must both spend time in areas with strong magnetic fields. One such location is Mt. Coronet in the Sinnoh region. Evolving them couldn't be simpler; just take a quick vacation to the mountains. Or, if you can't go yourself, place an ad for any battling trainer who's headed that way. Practically any battler would be willing to borrow your Pokémon for long enough to let it evolve there, in exchange for having its power on their side for the journey there and back.

**Items**

Some Pokémon evolve by devouring certain items. Once eaten, the unique chemical structure of the item merges with the individual's body, providing it with the necessary materials for evolution (the process is slightly different for Porygon and Porygon2, who each must ingest a special kind of disc and read data from it; the end result is the same, however). At the same time, the genetic trigger is set off.

The necessary items are rare, but not prohibitively so. Most Pokémon-themed newspapers, magazines, websites, and other publications have classified sections, full of advertisements from trainers looking to buy, sell, and trade. You should be able to find the item you need through an ad, though you may have to cancel your vacation for that year to afford it.

**Stones**

Stones are very similar to items, except that instead of the Pokémon having to ingest it, mere exposure to the stone is sufficient to trigger the evolution. This is thanks to a specialized kind of radiation from the stone. When the stone is by itself, it does not radiate, producing the energy only when a compatible Pokémon touches it, thanks to a special interaction between the stone and the Pokémon's personal energy field. There is only enough power in a stone to evolve one Pokémon. These can be obtained from classified ads just like the other items.

**Time**

The time of day plays a role in the evolution of certain Pokémon, but it is never the sole factor. It always works in tandem with another catalyst. On those occasions when a certain time of day is required, I shall mention it in the relevant profiles.

**Interaction**

There are several Pokémon that only evolve by interacting with several different humans. They all have close ties to humanity, and it is believed the trigger acts this way because they won't know how to fully use their power until they have studied a number of humans. The fastest way to get these species to evolve is trade them temporarily to another trainer.

**Unique**

And finally, there's a rare few Pokémon who have an evolution method unique to themselves. I'll detail these methods in the profiles for that particular species.

One final note. When your Pokémon evolves, its personality will change a bit. It may take some time for you to adjust to this. But these changes are minor. It's still your beloved companion.

For Further Information: _The Descent Of Pokémon_, by Professor Charles Rowan


	3. Moves

**Moves**

A move is a Pokémon's manifestation of its power and internal energy, channeled in a large variety of ways. These ways can be divided into one of two categories. Those that directly affect the body are classified as _Physical_. Those that manipulate some kind of other effect or power (everything from fire to psychic energy) are classified as _Special_. Most Pokémon tend to excel at one or the other, but all have some degree of both Physical and Special power.

A Pokémon can only use a move a certain number of times before it becomes tired out and needs to replenish its energy, either through regular rest, a satisfying meal, healing at a Pokémon Center, or certain items such as Elixirs. Should a Pokémon exhaust its power, it can continue to fight, but to continue in this condition is a struggle, and causes it pain.

The common perception of moves is that they're mostly of interest to battling trainers. This is largely, but not totally, inaccurate. Several moves are indeed only of use for fighting, but there are many that have everyday uses. The move Fly allows many Pokémon to serve as air transport; Surf serves the same purpose for getting across the seas. Fire moves can spark a pleasant campfire. Water moves can extinguish an inferno or fill a pool. Electric moves can jumpstart a car. And so on, and so on. A list of all known moves and their descriptions is beyond the scope of this book. However, in each profile I'll list a move or two that a Pokémon can learn that I think would be particularly helpful, both for battling and normal life.

A Pokémon typically learns most moves it will generally need in life simply by leveling up. However, in case you want to teach them something they wouldn't learn naturally, you have an option.

**Technical Machines and Hidden Machines**

Technical Machines (TMs) and Hidden Machines (HMs) are tools that can be used to teach moves to Pokémon. The first thing I should tell you is that not every Pokémon can learn every move. Not by any means, but again, a full compatibility list would be too much for this book.

TMs and HMs can interface directly with a Pokémon's brain and instantly create a neural pathway that shows it how to use whichever move is included on the machine. They were developed after years of research by at Silph Co. TMs can only be used once before it stops functioning (although this has been subverted recently by a new experimental set in the Isshu-Unova region), while an HM can be used over and over again. These HMs tend to be moves of a wider, non-battling interest that help facilitate transportation and navigation, which is why they can be used an infinite amount of times.

TMs and HMs are available by direct mail order from Silph Co., at several outlet stores, or, naturally, through classified ads.

For Further Information: _Moves: The Heart Of War_, by Professor Scan Tzu


	4. Types I

**Types**

All Pokémon are one of seventeen types, or a combination of two of those types. These types are largely tied-in to the very nature of the world itself, and have a complex, intertwining relationship that has been described as "elemental rock-paper-scissors." Perhaps the best known example is the triangle of Grass/Water/Fire; Grass-types have an advantage over Water-types, Water-types have an advantage over Fire-types, and Fire-types have an advantage over Grass-types. Each of these three, as well, has relationships to other types. All seventeen connect in a complicated web.

Types are determined by looking at each species of Pokémon and seeing what kind of special properties it possesses. Depending on which type its properties match, it is then decided what type it is. If it has properties of two different types, it is dubbed a dual-type. Aside from the Pokémon itself, moves can also be typed, though only singly. The types of moves are determined by which type it seems to draw most of its properties from.

These types are of the most interest to trainers who need to know how the different weaknesses and strengths affect their chances in battle, but every owner of Pokémon should have some basic knowledge of the type relationships, to know how their companions would interact with one another and with other owners' Pokémon, and also of their own preferences.

One peculiar note is that trainers who specialize in certain types often tend to have characteristics mirroring those types. Flying trainers spend a lot of time in high places, Dark trainers are often nocturnal, and so on. The most striking is the Psychic trainers who have esper powers of their own. Research is currently underway to determine how this chicken-and-egg effect begins; if trainers with these proclivities are naturally drawn to certain types of Pokémon, or if owning these Pokémon leads to these tendencies.

For Further Reading: _The World's Seventeen-Player Game_, by Professor Samuel Jankenpon

**Normal**

Normal-type Pokémon are one of those little oddities in the universe. Normal-types, like the number zero or the vacuum of space, are not so much defined by what they _are_ as by what they are _not_.

They are not strongly affiliated with any of the other sixteen-types. Most have them have none or very few of the special properties that qualify a Pokémon as one of the other varieties, which gets them classified as Normal-type. Of those that have somewhat more properties, the vast majority of them get classified as Normal/Flying.

Normal-types, by and large, tend to be some of the easier Pokémon for first-time trainers (though as with every generalization, there are always exceptions), and if you're not planning to be a battler, one of them is probably the best place for you to start. They don't require anything special when it comes to accommodations and you won't have to do much Pokémon-proofing of your home.

They have a weakness to most of the Fighting-type moves, and it is believed that when that type came about, it was a specific evolution to take advantage of the vulnerabilities of the Normal-types. They typically cannot be hurt at all by the more-often-than-not insubstantial Ghost-type moves, since the energy field that those moves affect is weaker in Normal-types.

For Further Reading: _The Humble Masters_ by Professor John Median

**Flying**

There are no Flying-type Pokémon.

Well, that was a short section.

Of course, that's just a half-truth. It's true that there are no known Pokémon who have Flying as their one and only type, although there is one Legendary Pokémon that is strongly suspected of being pure-Flying. But there's plenty of species who have Flying as one of their dual types, but even then it's never the primary type, or even on an equal footing with the other type. It's always secondary.

Why is this? It's simple; because the Flying-type has _two_ properties that define it. The first should be incredibly obvious: the species flies. All of the currently identified dual-typed Flying Pokémon have that property. The second property, however, has not yet been confirmed in any known Pokémon. And that property is, quite simply, that the Pokémon is capable of spending _all its time in the air_. If we ever discover such a species, that can go from birth to death without ever having to touch the ground (of course, _having_ to touch the ground is different from _choosing_ to touch the ground), then that species will be classified as either only Flying-type or as dual-typed with Flying as the primary or as equal. But that day has not yet come, though if we can get a good look at the previously-mentioned Legendary Pokémon, that may be the day.

A quick note, before we move on. Some species fly, but are not Flying-types. I'm specifically thinking of Beedrill, Venomoth, and Dustox. All three of them are instead Bug/Poison. The properties of those two types that they possess far outweigh the one Flying-type trait they have (even though it is flight itself) and, thus, they are not Flying-type and do not share its strengths and weaknesses.

And speaking of strengths and weaknesses, let's discuss them now. They resist both Bug and Grass-type moves, which makes sense as those two kinds of Pokémon make up the majority of Flying-types' diets. They also resist Fighting-type moves, thanks to the large masses of feathers that help deflect the blows' force; this tends to cancel out the extra damage that most Flying-types receive from also being Normal-type. They are also typically unaffected by Ground-type moves, which they usually just take to the air to avoid. They are, however, vulnerable to Ice-type moves, which freeze up their wings; to Rock-type moves, which provide a rough, unyielding surface against their light bones; and Electric-type moves.

For those of you who remember your basic physics, this last may seem odd. After all, electricity hurts _less_ when someone isn't grounded, not _more_. This is true for normal lightning that may strike a Flying-type, but not when it comes to electric moves consciously directed at them. Why? Well, when the victim is targeted, the attacker unconsciously creates an invisible streamer from it to the ground (the same kind that immediately precedes a normal lightning bolt from the clouds to the ground). This streamer essentially acts as a ground for the Flying-type, making it extra-vulnerable.

Flying-types are fairly easy to care for. Make sure you have a perch or, preferably, several of them scattered throughout your dwelling. Also have a large area for them to stretch their wings, either inside or out.

For Further Reading: _Masters Of The Air_ by Professor David Crane


	5. Types II

**Fire**

Fire-types are potentially one of the most dangerous kind of Pokémon, for hopefully obvious reasons. Thankfully, they're also moderately rare, and they tend to have excellent control of their own personal infernos, so forest fires sparked off by a careless flame blast are rarer still.

All Fire-type Pokémon have flame incorporated directly into their body structure, by one means or another. Not all Pokémon have external flames; these internally-flaming Pokémon include those who are purely Fire-type, as well as both dual-types with Fire as their dominant type and as their secondary type. These fires are generated either by chemical means or by a limited form of pyrokinesis; the method varies from species to species.

Fire-types are resistant against Bug-type moves, as their chitinous exoskeletons are easily burnt upon body contact and their light-and-sound based attacks are dispersed by flame's own glow and crackling; against Grass-type moves, as cellulose is also easily scorched; against Ice-type moves, as ice naturally melts; against Steel-type moves, as the flames soften and weaken the metal, if only temporarily; and their own Fire-type moves, as there is little for other blazes to burn. They are weak to Water, Ground, and Rock, all of which dampen their flames upon contact.

With a little preparation and common-sense fireproofing, Fire-types are relatively undemanding to raise; this is proven (if by nothing else) by the fact that the regions where a Fire-type is one of the traditional starters for inexperienced and often very young battling trainers have not burnt to a crisp. They are by no means as easy as Normal or Flying-types, but not nearly as hard as several other types I'll discuss later. If you need help with the fireproofing, just ask your local fire department for help. They'll be glad to provide it, as it means less work for them in the long run.

For Further Reading: _The Crazy World Of Fire_ by Professor Arthur Brown

**Water**

Water-types are the most abundant in the world, just like the compound itself. They are defined by living in or near the water, and/or being very moist at practically all times. Either way, they're saturated with H2O, even compared to humans, who are typically composed of approximately 70% water.

Water-type Pokémon have learned to control their body's water to achieve a variety of effects. This can range from shooting out powerful jets of water to actually summoning rain. They can even shift their internal water to different parts of their body, increasing their strength or defense.

When it comes to battling, Water-type Pokémon strongly resist Fire-type moves, as they naturally put out flames; Ice-type moves, as they're naturally adapted to cold; Steel-type moves, as the special isotope that makes up "Pokémon water" causes rust extremely quickly (_extremely _quickly) to that other type and also helps to disperse several kinds of energy; and other Water-type moves, as their body simply absorbs much of the liquid. They are weak to Grass-type moves, which suck their water away, weakening them. They are also weak to Electric-type moves, because water is a spectacular conductor of electricity, as any child who's ever watched a cartoon will tell you.

Water-types are fairly easy to care for. You need to waterproof your home. Any local hardware store or handyman will be able to do it for you, or walk you through it in case you'd rather do it yourself. You should also have a large water source somewhere nearby. If there's an ocean, lake, river, or even a small stream somewhere near your home, that'll do. A swimming pool will also work; it's not uncommon for several owners of Water-type Pokémon to (pardon the pun) pool their income and buy one the whole group can use. If you want to keep your companion inside, be sure to have a large, constantly-filled tub it can relax in, cleaning it once a week or so.

Note that this is not necessary for your Pokémon's survival, just its comfort. Water-types, even those that basically seem to be fish, are capable of breathing and living on land (and you haven't really lived until you've seen a Seaking swimming through the air). However, if you fail to provide it with enough water that it can relax in, it will never give you love and respect.

For Further Reading: _An Ocean Of Diversity_ by Professor Leonard McKenzie

**Grass**

Grass-types seem to be one of the strangest varieties of Pokémon, blurring as they do the line between plant and animal. All Grass-type Pokémon must possess cell walls and vacuoles (a kind of cell structure) in at least a portion of their anatomy, such as the fungi growing on the back of Paras and Parasect, if not the whole thing; how much of their physique has these structures determines the exact typing.

They really shouldn't be called Grass-types, since many of them have no relation to grass. Plant-type would be better, and Vacuole-type best, since the fungi mentioned above are not plants at all; but I suspect Vacuole-type wouldn't roll off the tongue as well. Much like Pokémon "evolution," the commonly applied term has stuck.

Grass-types are the subject of intense study by Pokémon geneticists, trying to figure out exactly how this strange mixture came about. Personally, I suspect they were born in a time when water was rare, and any advantage in retaining moisture would be a huge boon. A Pokémon was born with a mutation of cell walls, it thrived, and the Grass-type was born. But that's just one theory among many.

Grass-types resist well against Electric-types, since their nervous-systems are based less around electrical impulses; to Ground and Water-types, since they absorb both kind of materials for nutrition; and other Grass-types, since their own thick cell walls resist other fibrous material. They are weak to Bug and Flying-types, since they're a natural food source for insects and other arthropods as well as many aerial creatures; to Fire-types, since they easily burn; to Ice-types, since they also easily freeze; and to Poison-types, since their chemical-based systems transmit toxins extra-well.

Grass-types are just a little more difficult to care for than Normal or Flying-types. Make sure you provide them with plenty of soil and water. Most of them require lots of sunlight, but many of them also enjoy having dark places to cool off, so be sure they have easy access to both brightness conditions. Also, be prepared to sweep up lots of leaves from time to time; those who raise a Grass-type are probably the only people who need to keep a rake indoors.

For Further Reading: _Garden Of Delights_ by Professor Chloe Phyll


	6. Types III

**Poison**

Poison-types are recommended for more advanced Pokémon trainers, those who have successfully raised several other individuals already. Toxins, after all, require care and experience to avoid or deal with (just ask any zookeeper).

There are almost as many variations of toxin in Pokémon as there are Poison-types themselves, but thankfully for the purposes of life-saving, they are all based around just one root neurotoxin. This allows one form of antidote, sold in any Poké Mart worth the name, to be used for treating envenomation by all species.

Technically, they should be called Toxin-type, as poison refers to something used defensively (and venom, used offensively), but I'm sure by now you're sick of my nitpicking in this area. The number, size, and potency of toxin-producing glands help determine each species's individual type.

Poison-types are resistant to Bug-type moves, as their exoskeletons soften and weaken when they come in too-close contact with the toxin-saturated bodies of their targets, and the light-and-sound based attacks are likewise counteracted by the poison-influenced body chemistry; Grass-type moves, as cellulose is also weakened by toxins; Fighting-type moves, as the Poison-types had to restructure their anatomy to produce venom glands, protecting them from the full power of the blow; and their own Poison-type moves, as they are of course largely immune to their own poison. They're weak against Ground-types, which can mainly soak up the poison as they attack; and Psychic-type moves, since the psi energy involved reacts badly with the chemical makeup of the venom.

Should you encounter a Poison-type in the wild, and you don't have a Pokémon of your own to defend yourself with, back away slowly and raise your hands over your head. The wild Pokémon should leave you alone. On the off chance you do get bitten (or slimed, or gassed), once you are safely away from the offending animal, there are a few simple steps you can take. If at all possible, immediately wash the infected area with soap and water. Keep the area below the heart. Cover the area with something cool and moist. Get to a doctor as soon as you can (bear in mind, these tips also apply to non- Pokémon poisonous bites as well).

If you have one of the antidotes, by all means, take it, but you still need to seek medical attention. The antidotes are only completely effective on Pokémon, and while they will certainly save a human's life in the field, they're no substitute for proper treatment (the sad tale of Marty Atrice, although _enormously _exaggerated in its mutation to urban legend, should drive this point home).

Poison-types have a bad reputation that's rather unfairly earned, one that's not helped by their common use among the criminal organization Team Rocket. But to any trainer who's already raised one or two Pokémon, Poison-types can be just as loving and wonderful companions as any other variety.

For Further Reading: _A Few Drops Of Venom_ by Professor Bella Donna

**Electric**

An Electric-type needs careful handling. They're a type that I wouldn't recommend for a beginner. That said, they're certainly not impossible to own as your first Pokémon, and I'm aware of one young trainer who has achieved great success starting off with one.

Electric-types tend to be very fast, and they tend to have hair-trigger tempers to match. You'll need to learn how to calm them down, and until you do, I advise wearing an outfit with a lot of rubber. Fortunately, their "tantrum zaps" tend to shock (no pun intended) worse than they actually hurt.

Speaking of zaps, these Pokémon generate their own electricity in a manner similar to the electric eel, via numerous specialized organs composed of countless numbers of current-generating electrocytes. How many of these organs a species has determines its exact typing.

They resist Flying-type moves, because the attacking Pokémon is forced away (by their natural instinct to avoid electricity) without being able to land the full force of the blow; to Steel-type moves, because their in-built electric field is able to partially repel them; and to their own Electric-type moves, due to their bodies acting somewhat as a lightning rod. They are weak to Ground-type moves, which (thanks to their grounded properties) actually siphon away some of their electricity. This is their only elemental weakness, but unfortunately this is counterbalanced by the fact that Electric-types are generally somewhat fragile.

If you get one of these Pokémon, be sure to give it a large, wide-open space for it to run around in; they need a lot of room to expend all of their spare energy. If you do that, and let it have access to a power outlet or two, you'll be fine once you've had some experience with a less temperamental type. Just be prepared for the occasional brief blackout.

For Further Reading: _The Shocking Truth_ by Professor Thomas Tesla

**Ice**

An Ice-type is really not much harder to handle than a Water-type. Nevertheless, I'm provisionally listing them as "not for inexperienced trainers." I hasten to add, however, that this only applies to those who believe in catching all Pokémon after their first on their own. Ice-types are often found in isolated, wild areas far from civilization (although Snowpoint City tries to prove me a liar) and I recommend that you have plenty of experience journeying into the rough country before you try to hunt one down. However, if you want an Ice-type as your first Pokémon, or if you want to hire someone else to get one for you, don't let me discourage you.

What sets Ice-types apart from their aquatic brethren is the natural presence of cryogenic chemicals, stabilizing much of their internal water supply at or near freezing temperatures. They've learned to turn this to their advantage in a large number of ways, especially as attacks; few other types can match them offensively, or stand up to a blast of sub-zero compounds. Unfortunately, when it comes to _taking_ hits, they tend to be as fragile as their namesakes.

Just look at how they react in battle. The only things they resist well are their own Ice-type moves, as they're already well-adapted to severe cold. They don't stand-up well against Fire-type moves, which can melt their internal ice and cause severe discomfort and pain; and against Fighting, Rock, and Steel-type moves. All three types have such force behind their blows that they can actually shatter the frozen crystals inside the ice Pokémon's body.

If you want to own an Ice-type, I advise you invest in some waterproofing, though you shouldn't need as much as you would if you had a Water-type (although there are some Ice/Water dual-types). If you live in a temperate or warm climate, prepare for your air-conditioning bill to spike; they need a cool environment to really be happy. Alternately, you can simply invest in a huge, industrial grade freezer room and let your Pokémon wander in and out of it at will. That should satisfy them. Just remember, although their bodies may be cold, their hearts can be warm.

For Further Reading: _Turn On Tune In Chill Out_ by Professor Victor Fries


	7. Types IV

**Bug**

A Bug-type Pokémon is often one of the first that a battling trainer will catch by his or herself. Many of them are fairly easy to capture and don't require much effort to care for when venturing out into the wild. In fact, they actually require more work to raise in a home environment, as you'll have to remove shed skins, cocoons, and similar detritus yourself, instead of simply letting them decompose outdoors. Also, if you live with someone else, you might want to check before you bring a Bug-type home, as for some reason, a number of people have phobias of three-foot long spiders and such. Therefore, I'm tentatively recommending that one of them not be your first.

Bug-types are composed of species that resemble insects, arachnids, and other arthropods. As bugs are only one subclass of insects, this group should really be called Arthropod-types, but I think I should stop obsessively finding fault with type names before an angry mob storms my publisher's office.

To qualify as a Bug-type, a Pokémon needs to have an exoskeleton (although mere possession of one does not automatically make a species a Bug-type, as seen in Krabby and Kingler, whose strong Water-type is so overriding it has no other). Most in this group are either single-typed or have Bug as their main type with just a few traces of a second type.

Bug-types are a mixed bag when it comes to battling. They strongly resist Fighting-type moves, which weren't meant to deal with exoskeletons when they were developed; Grass-type moves, as cellulose is a chief food source for them and they've evolved their exoskeletons to weather attacks by it; and Ground-type moves, since they spend a lot of time on or in the soil and are used to it. On the other hand, they're weak against Fire-type moves, which can melt their chitin; against Flying-type moves, as they themselves are food for that type; and to Rock-type moves, which can crush them inside their own exoskeletons.

If you can get past the first instinctive loathing that many people have to Bug-types, they'll serve you well as both battlers and loving companions. Your home won't require much in the way of special treatment. Just make sure you have some cramped, dark corners they can scurry into if they get startled.

For Further Reading: _They Don't Bug Me_ by Professor Peter Arachne

**Ground**

Ground-types can be tricky to care for. To keep them happy and healthy requires some special preparations, and it also tends to require a lot of cleaning around your house, as dirt tends to get everywhere. You can't be afraid to put in some elbow grease to keep your living quarters spic-n-span if you own a Ground-type, so I can't recommend one as your first Pokémon.

Ground-types like to spend a lot of time burrowed in the ground, or nestled very close to it. Soil, sand, and clay make up a large portion of their diets, as well as their bodily composition; exactly how much helps determine the typing.

When it comes to battling, they resist Poison-type moves, as the earthy make-up of their bodies help absorb the toxins, and Rock-type moves, which are softened by interacting with clay. They're also practically immune to Electric-type moves, thanks to the low-conductivity of their bodies. They're weak to Grass-type moves, which are nourished by their soil; by Water-type moves, which can wash it away; and by Ice-type moves, which cause it to crack and stiffen. They're very strong offensively, in many cases capable of slipping past the defenses of the most tank-like Pokémon. Flying-types, however, can pose a serious problem, unless you've taught it a diverse set of moves.

If you own a Ground-type, it needs either access to an outdoors area with lots of dirt, or I'm afraid you'll have to pick a room to fill with large piles of soil that it can feed upon. Many species enjoy burrowing and digging. Unless you want your floor to be full of holes (which, in rental properties, tends to void the security deposit), I suggest you buy some special habitats for them. They're basically larger versions of those rodent habitations with lots of tubes, modified slightly to give the illusion of digging. If you're ready to put in a good deal of work, a Ground-type will pay off.

For Further Reading: _Uncommon As Dirt_ by Professor Terra Haute

**Rock**

A Rock-type can be problematic. They tend toward the large and heavy; an Onix can stretch the length of a small apartment. Even without meaning to, they can often smash furniture and fixtures, especially when first introduced to the home. One is definitely not recommended to be your first Pokémon; raising one requires patience, the ability to enforce firm discipline when necessary, and a budget that can support replacing lots of household objects.

Rock-types are made out of hard, stony minerals; there are relatively few pure, single-types in this group. Many Rock-types have Ground as a second-type, and which is the primary is determined by if their body is primarily tough or soft.

In battling, they can be a defensive mixed bag. They resist Normal-type moves, which are simply not strong enough to penetrate through all their layers of stone; Fire-type moves, due to high tolerance for heat; Flying-type moves, as Pokémon that fly tend to have weak, fragile bones that can't stand up to rough impacts against rocky surfaces, and their wind attacks don't erode stone very quickly; and Poison-types, whose toxins have few weak points to penetrate. On the other hand, they're weak to Fighting-type moves, which can find the weak points in stone and shatter it; to Grass, Ground, and Water-type moves, all of which are very good at eroding; and Steel-type moves, the only type which is harder than Rock on a regular basis.

Should you decide to get a Rock-type, be advised that it will require a lot of space, largely for size reasons if for nothing else. You'll also need a constant supply of stone to feed them, but your local Pokémon Center will be able to direct you to an adequate source. Once you have experience under your belt, a Rock-type will make a devoted addition to your household, as long as you don't mind sweeping up enough gravel to start your own Zen garden.

For Further Reading: _Rocksteady_ by Professor Piotr Chrysoprase


	8. Types V

**Steel**

A Steel-type Pokémon can be tricky to raise; I'd say the group straddles the line between "intermediate" and "for expert trainers only." They can be very hard to discipline successfully (in many cases, it's like using a rolled-up newspaper to chastise a battleship). Many of them also require a large diet, and their preferred foods aren't the cheapest things around.

In this case, typing is determined by the presence of certain metals. Steel, of course, is the primary culprit, but there are also several rare, exotic alloys that make up part of their body chemistry. Exact typing is determined by these metals' ratios in comparison to other materials.

In battling, you couldn't ask for a better type when it comes to defense. You are, perhaps, familiar with the concept of a "cage," which is a construction of certain metals that can weaken or even block electromagnetic energy entirely. Steel-types function in a similar way, resisting most kinds of energy (although, funnily enough, not electricity). And they're so durable they can shrug off most physical attacks. They're only truly vulnerable to Fighting-type moves, which can find the weak points in their metallic frames; Fire-type moves, which can bring them close to melting; and Ground-type moves, as they're unfortunately susceptible to quick erosion. They're neutral against electrical and water attacks. They resist _everything else_. They aren't the best when it comes to offense, but when you can outlast most opponents, you don't have to be.

Steel-types feast on metal to survive. They can get by on junk and household scrap for a while, but in the long-term, you need the high-grade ferrous metals. Unless you live in or near a mining town, it'll cost you. And you need a spine as strong as steel yourself, to stand up to them when they're being petulant. But if you can manage it, you'll have a loyal companion. And of course, their near-imperviousness won't hurt either.

For Further Reading: _Finely Tempered_ by Professor Rusty Carnegie

**Fighting**

Fighting-types have a different set of needs from practically all other Pokémon. They're not quite difficult enough to merit a "for advanced trainers only" rating, but not quite easy enough for "intermediate" either. You'll definitely need some experience before trying to raise one.

The Fighting-types are a lineage that has evolved in a very specialized direction. Incredible as it may seem, they're Pokémon martial artists. Over the generations, they've honed battling to an art form; to several art forms, in fact, several different fighting styles. Most individuals even have a code of honor (though this does not preclude wicked tendencies; they just act "bad" in an honorable way). They can channel a special, internal kind of energy called ki. Typing is determined by what extent other kind of moves make up their fighting style.

They strongly resist blows from Dark-types, whose typically sneaky attacks fail when the Fighter-type senses their ki, and whose own dark energy is dispersed by ki; Rock-types, whose attacks they learned to resist over their years of evolutionary training; and Bug-types, whose chitinous exoskeletons fail against their naturally excellent defense, and whose light-and-sound based attacks are weakened by their natural concentration. Their excellent defenses, however, fail against Psychic-types, as an unfortunate side-effect of ki mastery leaves them vulnerable to psi attacks; and Flying-types, as they just can't manage to defend well against aviators' abnormal anatomy, nor their amorphous wind attacks.

Unlike other types, where it's optional, if you want to train a Fighting-type then some battling is basically mandatory. It doesn't have to be an organized tournament or a constant journey of conflict, though. A friendly sparring match against a neighbor's Pokémon two or three times a week should be satisfactory. They also enjoy learning new moves and skills from both humans and Pokémon. If you let your Fighting-type spend, say, one week per season away training with experts, you will have earned its undying affection and loyalty.

As noted before, many individuals have an unwritten code of honor, and they'll expect you to live up to it as well. Minor infractions will cause short periods of disappointment and disobedience. Major breaks may induce your Pokémon to leave, usually temporarily but, in extreme cases, permanently (although these extreme cases will usually earn you so much legal trouble that Pokémon desertion will be the least of your worries). Finally, you'll need one room of your living quarters set aside for it to perform daily katas in. Fortunately, it doesn't have to be an especially large room, just one with enough space for it to do some vigorous exercise. Give it these things it needs, and you'll have one of the world's combat masters at your back.

For Further Reading: _Way Of The Fist And Foot_ by Professor Jean-Claude Norris

**Dark**

There's not much I have to tell you about the Dark-type, is there? Everyone knows that they're vicious, wicked, and untrustworthy, and that their owners fit the same mold. This is common knowledge.

It's also untrue.

Dark-type Pokémon, it is true, are often cunning, tricky, and typically nocturnal to boot, but this does not add up to evil. They're no more or less likely to be villainous than any other type, and can be just as affectionate, kind, and loving. They're the victims of ignorant superstition that, over generations, has become entrenched in the minds of most laypeople. They are, however, a type that only trainers with a lot of experience should try to raise, due to their mischievous tendencies and strange powers.

They command, and their bodies are saturated with, a special kind of dark energy (as far as is known, this has no connection to the hypothetical dark energy of astronomical theory, and is separate from the "shadow energy" manipulated by the criminal Cipher organization). How much energy they have throughout their essence determines exact typing.

They're basically immune to Psychic-type attacks, as dark energy overwhelms and washes out psi. They also resist Ghost-type moves (although not as well), as the dark energy protects them from their trademark phasing, and their own Dark-type moves, thanks to different sources of dark energy dampening one another. Their strength is also their weakness, however. Dark energy is largely scattered by the ki that Fighting-types use in their attacks, and is easily detected by the specialized arthropod senses of Bug-types, who can target weak spots in the energy field with their moves.

You don't need to prepare your house much for a Dark-type, as long as you have one or two dimly-lit rooms they can lurk during the day if they're startled or sulky. You'll have to put up with its mostly nocturnal lifestyle, but if you're a night-owl yourself this will actually be a benefit, and if not, well, it's no worse than the average cat's sleeping schedule. It'll certainly hit you with some mischief from time to time, but as long as you take it with good humor and treat the Pokémon kindly, it'll never go beyond harmless pranks.

Perhaps the hardest part of raising a Dark-type is the reaction you'll get from the public. Sadly, you can expect to be shunned for a while. I'm afraid the only advice I can give you is "tough it out." When you make them see that your beloved companion is not evil, but caring and kind-hearted, they'll come back to you and apologize, and your resoluteness will have made the world a less bigoted place. And unlike Dark-types, bigotry _is_ inherently evil (and that's your moral for this chapter).

For Further Reading: _In Darkest Night_ by Professor Yzma Obsidian


	9. Types VI

**Ghost**

Ghost-types are, almost without question, the most misnamed group of Pokémon. They aren't ghosts. Make no mistake; there are ghost Pokémon, but not entire species of them. The _real_ ghosts are individuals, their restless souls or echoes of their psychic energy (the scientific community hasn't reached a consensus on this). They tend to haunt their homes, the locations where they died, or their final resting places. Pokémon Tower in Lavender Town was probably the most haunted place in the world, until it was torn down and the thousands of remains buried there were re-interred elsewhere, and to this day the radio tower built on the site reports its fair share of spooky occurrences.

Ghost-types were given their name back when people didn't know better. And to be fair, the Pokémon themselves don't help, what with their tendencies of walking through walls, materializing seemingly out of nowhere, and enjoying scaring several years of life out of you, if they don't do worse. Make no mistake, they can be very dangerous. They all have to be registered with your local government. An inexperienced owner trying to train one will almost certainly end in tragedy. You are warned.

These wannabe wraiths can pass through solid objects thanks to their amazing ability to "quantum tunnel." The science behind this is extremely complicated, but it boils down to the Pokémon subconsciously manipulating their bodies on a subatomic scale, altering it in such a way they can pass through matter. How they gained this ability we can barely even begin to guess. Some materials are easier to phase through than others; apricorns, Poke Balls, and similar items have a specialized molecular structure that resists quantum tunneling completely and so is capable of holding them captive. They can also use tunneling offensively, phasing into and through an opponent, disrupting its biological systems and causing several nasty effects.

Most Pokémon attacks are able to resist this effect and strike Ghost-types despite their attempts to phase through them. Normal-type attacks, however, fail almost completely, as their personal energy field isn't strong enough. Fighting-type moves do have a strong energy field, but unfortunately for them, an external source of ki actually speeds up the quantum effect and makes the martial arts moves all but useless. Poison-type attacks can manage to strike, but phasing slows down the effects of toxins. They're also excellent at phasing through Bug-types' exoskeletons, as well as their light-and-sound based attacks, taking less damage. However, their phasing fails them against Dark-type moves, as it's stopped by external dark energy, and other Ghost-type moves as well, as the dual attempts at phasing interact in a very painful way for the target.

There's not much you have to do to prepare your home for owning one of these Pokémon. Mostly you have to prepare yourself. Many of them have a rather wicked natural disposition (Gastly, I'm looking at you). You can train this out of them and make them as nice and loving as any other type, but it takes time and skill. You have to keep up your guard, and I recommend having several other Pokémon on hand to protect yourself if the Ghost-type acts out. Not everyone can manage raising one successfully, but if you can do it, you can handle practically any challenge the world can throw at you, and you'll have a strong specter to back you up.

For Further Reading: _Hauntingly Familiar_ by Professor Victor Shade

**Dragon**

Dragons! Just the word can send a shiver down the spine. It summons images of overwhelming power and haughty pride. The pride is often present; the power, almost always. To successfully raise a Dragon-type requires much skill and experience, and is something only advanced trainers should attempt.

Dragon-types are all reptilian in nature, to one degree or another. They also have a very large amount of the internal energy that all Pokémon possess, rather like a madly churning furnace. These two factors interact in some not-yet-fully understood fashion, to make them something unique: the Dragon-type. Their power is boosted through the roof and into the stratosphere, to the extent of even being able to blast their opponents with a localized meteor shower.

This power burns and surges inside of them, and that's not just a figure of speech. It shields them from the full effect of Fire and Electric attacks, as their bodies are adapted to energy flowing through them. It also partially guards against Water, which boils away, and Grass, which burns on prolonged contact with their skin. However, it's dampened by Ice-type moves. They're also weak against their own Dragon-type moves, as they can sense one another's energy flow and strike in the weak spots.

This is not the kind of Pokémon you can raise in a one-bedroom apartment. They need space to use all that energy, especially those who can fly. They also often have an attitude, and that goes double for any evolved Dragon-types in their final stage. It takes a very good trainer to cut the Pokémon down to size and make it properly affectionate and obedient without enraging or offending it. It can be very, very risky (risky enough that they must be registered), but the payoff is enormous.

For Further Reading: _The Affairs Of Dragons_ by Professor Tubal De Malachite

**Psychic**

All Pokémon are powerful, as I've mentioned before, and you'd have to be a fool to abuse any of them. But if you abuse a Psychic-type, you join the elite ranks of the biggest fools on the planet. They are perhaps the single most difficult type to raise, with the worst consequences if you fail to do it properly. Training one is for highly advanced trainers only.

They control psi energy, a form of power created by the mind itself. They can possess telepathy, telekinesis, and teleportation. You can have real conversations with them (albeit mentally), something almost unique among Pokémon. They can be incredibly dangerous, as you'd expect from a group that can read minds, move objects through sheer force of will, and arrive at a destination in an instant. Every species has to be registered. They're the kind of Pokémon you least want to anger.

Their powers weaken the impact of Fighting-type moves, as psi energy easily blocks the martial artists' ki. They also stand up well against other Psychic-types, their energies blunting one another. However, they have a few weaknesses as well. They can't read the arthropod minds of Bug-types as well as other minds, leaving themselves wide open for attack. Their psychic defenses are also practically useless against Ghost-type phasing, and the energy used by Dark-types. Offensively, they tend to be heavy-hitters, though usually that's not as true in the physical department.

Your home should be fine as it is to raise a Psychic-type without any special preparation. Just make sure to give it lots of love and treat it well. If you don't, you cannot begin to comprehend how much trouble you could be in. The worst that other Pokémon can do is kill you (aside from Legendaries, which we'll discuss later). I know of one trainer who continually abused his Alakazam, which for the longest time put up with it like a battered spouse. Finally, it reached its limit. It reached into his brain and rewired his senses. What his eyes saw, he heard as sound; what his ears heard, he smelt as scent, and so on. The effect only lasted approximately five minutes, but he spent more than ten years in an asylum before he had recovered enough to be released.

For Further Reading: _I Knew You'd Read This Book_ by Professor Tetsuo Xavier


	10. Tools I

**=-Tools Of The Trade**

It takes more than a kind heart and a strong backbone to raise a Pokémon. There's specialized equipment involved. Some of it you'll need to own; other pieces of it you just need to know about.

This is by no means a complete listing. Some of the tools I'll list in this section have multiple variations, in which case I'll just list information on a basic model. Other items are mostly of use only to the battling Trainer or other specialists; as this is a book meant for every potential Pokémon owner, I didn't want to devote a lot of space to information meant for such a narrow subset of my audience (don't worry, battlers; the book I'm about to refer you to will more than make up for this omission).

For Further Reading: _A Wild DISCOUNT Appears! How To Buy Everything You Need For Your Pokémon Without Breaking Your Budget_ by Professor Leland Lesko

**Poké Balls**

By far the most important Pokémon-related tool is the Poké Ball. It serves as both capture-device housing, and it's not an understatement to call it one of the most important inventions in the history of humanity. It has helped stabilize civilization itself.

The Poké Ball has its roots in the humble apricorn. This fruit's outer shell was discovered to have special properties that made it excellent for imprisoning Pokémon. Unfortunately, it was too small to hold even the most diminutive, and the cost of harvesting hundreds of apricorns to build one Pokémon-proof room was prohibitive. The world's most brilliant scientists assembled in Saffron City to try and find some way to make use of the fruit.

Weeks of fevered brainstorming produced a prototype Poké Ball: a hollowed-out, hinged apricorn shell, equipped with state-of-the-art technology like a shrinking machine, a suction device, and a miniature computer that could lock onto a target. The next night, the scientists hired a local trainer and ventured into the surrounding wilderness. Before long, they encountered a Gengar.

The trainer fought with magnificent skill, his Nidorino and Jigglypuff wearing the wild Pokémon down. Finally, with the Gengar weakened, he threw the experimental device. It bathed the target in a shrink ray, pulled it inside, snapped shut, rocked once, twice, three times…and was still.

The group of pioneers sighed in relief. Second perhaps only to Gyarados, Gengar was the most feared Pokémon of Kanto…and they had shown they could capture it. The concept had proven itself.

Almost overnight, hundreds of apricorns were harvested and hollowed. The best trainers from around the world were given the new devices as part of a bargain. They were told to catch all the Pokémon they could near towns and cities, and they could keep them. They agreed, of course; it was a dream come true. As they fanned out into the frontier, they naturally encountered the most aggressive, daring Pokémon. As they were captured, it was the shyer, more timid ones who were left behind to reproduce. This was a consequence that even the scientists hadn't foreseen; travel from town to town would become much safer simply because of the dispositions of the remaining Pokémon. Even those that do still dare to attack humans are, by and large now content to simply chase them away or at worse knock them unconscious (annual fatalities from wild Pokémon attacks are presently near zero).

There was another unintended side-effect. The trainers soon had more Pokémon than they could handle. So they founded Gyms and recruited apprentice trainers to help manage their collection, in exchange for teaching them their secrets. Rivalries between Gyms soon sprouted up, and this in turn led to the foundation of the modern Pokémon Leagues.

But I digress.

As the frontiers were tamed, an interesting change in viewpoints occurred. Many trainers began to feel somewhat guilty about keeping their Pokémon imprisoned in such a small space most of the time. Breathing wasn't a problem, as the apricorn shell was oxygen-permeable, but confinement was.

A team of scientists led by Dr. Satoshi Silph found a solution. They created an artificial alloy that duplicated the properties of apricorns, and molded it into spheres. They were equipped with the same devices as the hollowed shells, as well as two new inventions.

One was a projector that bathed Pokémon in harmless radiation. If another trainer tried to capture a Pokémon that was saturated in this energy, the sphere would be short-circuited and the attempt would automatically fail (if the owner chose to free said Pokémon, it would be bathed in different radiation that cancelled out the first dose).

The other invention was a dimensional plane-shifter. The shrunken Pokémon would be pulled through a tiny hole into another world (more on this in a later chapter). They would return to normal size and the hole would close. Whenever the trainer triggered the device again, the Pokémon would take the journey in reverse (this took several minutes, so the returning "passenger" would not arrive startled). A complicated targeting algorithm, along with several secret, redundant back-up systems (in case of accident or a villainous organization trying to "hack" the Poké Ball), ensured only the desired Pokémon would be summoned.

And so what we think of as the Poké Ball was born. And with it came another startling transformation in the relationship between humans and Pokémon. Now that they were no longer confined to a small space, they became much more affectionate and loving toward their trainers, who in turn began to see them as friends, as pets, even as members of their families. As new generations of Pokémon were born and raised in a human-dominated environment, they became domesticated, and as they became domesticated, they began to seem necessary. Non-trainers began to acquire them. They started to perform all kinds of work, or were simply devoted companions. They had gone from unpredictable, destructive creatures of the wild to everyday, useful colleagues.

Today there are numerous varieties of Poké Ball. Hollowed apricorn shells are even still being produced by craftsmen (largely in the Johto region), which a dedicated segment of trainers prefer to use.

You might not become a battler, but I recommend you always have a few spare Poké Balls on hand. You never know when that one species you've always wanted will be there in the tall grass.

For Further Reading: _Play Ball! How A Tiny Little Sphere Changed Our Lives_ by Professor Hank Ruth


	11. Tools II

**Capture Styler And Capture Disc**

The Capture Styler is an interesting little device, a handheld remote control for the Capture Disc, which is shaped like a child's toy top. Capture Stylers are used by the radical Pokémon Ranger organization of Fiore, Almia, and Oblivia. They shun the use of Poké Balls, considering it akin to enslavement; instead, they control the Disc, causing it to spin rapidly around a Pokémon, leaving behind short-lived rings of energy.

The rings bombard the target with a certain kind of energy that induces feelings of friendship. This convinces the Pokémon that the Ranger is worthy of trust, and convinces it to lend some of its power to the Styler (if the Pokémon is agitated, however, it may attack the rings before becoming friendly, which can cause damaging feedback to the Styler or Disc). Afterwards, it departs. The Ranger can then use the power stored in the Styler for all sorts of effects, both in and out of battle. The faction of the group that operates in Oblivia has an experimental version of the Styler which actually persuades the Pokémon to journey alongside the human briefly.

The Disc and its rings are transmitters; the friendly feelings actually come from the Ranger's own mind (I've heard rumors of one that does not need these positive feelings, but I've been unable to confirm them). The device is useless unless its operator really is well-intentioned. In other words, don't expect to see Team Rocket using these anytime soon. I may disagree with their philosophy about Poké Balls, but I can tell you that as long as they keep using these machines, you can trust the Rangers.

For Further Reading: _To The Rescue_ by Professor Chip Endale

**Storage System**

This ingenious system makes life much easier for traveling Trainers. An item (often a Poké Ball) is taken to a properly outfitted PC and placed into a special chamber connected to the computer. The item is dematerialized, and the molecular structure is analyzed, down to the last subatomic particle, and then recorded in a massive databank. When the trainer wants to retrieve the item, he or she simply goes to a terminal and requests it, which is reconstructed in the chamber. The reconstruction is so perfect that a Poké Ball's computer memory will still remember and find the Pokémon connected to it.

Trainers can carry portable "de/re chambers" (as they're called) which are mostly normal, but locked to work one way on Poké Balls, dematerializing and recording without reconstructing. The system has countless levels of security to prevent unauthorized access, and won't work on living matter (rumors persist that one member of the system's development team tried to use a de/re chamber on himself and became temporarily merged with a Pokémon; I've been unable to confirm this).

This system is the result of collaboration between Silph Co. and a research team led by reclusive genius Masaki "Bill" Sonezaki. Without it, roaming Trainers would either have to haul a huge collection of Poké Balls at all times, or would have to return to a secure location almost everyday. The Pokémon Leagues' "six Pokémon at a time" rule would be practically impossible to enforce.

For Further Reading: _Technology Is Incredible!_ by Professor Kanata Slowflake


	12. Legendary Pokémon

**Legendary Pokémon **

Ah, Legendary Pokémon. They're shrouded in myth and rumor, featuring prominently in legends (I'll give you a moment to get over your surprise). Every professor dreams of studying one; every trainer, of capturing one; every battler, of fighting one. But the question remains, just what are they?

For the moment, let's rephrase that question, as "How do Pokémon get classified as a Legendary?" Well, there are a few criteria, and to some degree it's a rather subjective process.

First off, Legendaries are powerful. I know, I know, I keep repeating that all Pokémon are powerful, but for Legendaries it's doubly true. It's said they can manipulate the seasons, control the weather, reshape the face of the planet, grant wishes, have power over emotions, and rule space, time, and antimatter. It's even said one of them created the universe itself. If they only have one-hundredth of the power that the stories give to them, still they are potent almost beyond belief. They are not invincible, but to the best of our knowledge, no Legendary has ever lost to a non-Legendary in a one-on-one battle; it requires a team to defeat one. On the rare cases they have been defeated, they've always fled, never been captured. In some cases they dodged Poké Balls as they fled, but in other cases they were allowed to leave.

Why would a trainer allow a Legendary to escape? Two explanations have been given by those who defeated them. One reason is that they felt unsure about their ability to successfully control their quarry, and dreaded their wrath. The other reason is that they believed capturing the Legendary would cause some kind of imbalance in nature that could ravage the world.

And to get back on topic, a second requirement for earning the Legendary qualification is rarity. We're not sure how rare exactly they are, but there's never been more than one of a species recorded at a time. To say that this causes debate among Pokémon Professors is like describing the surface of the sun as a bit toasty. One faction believes that they are true legends, and that there really is only one immortal member of each species. Another faction takes the opposite stance, that they reproduce like other Pokémon and that we simply haven't been fortunate enough to see them in family groups or as juveniles. A third faction, taking the middle ground, believes that they reproduce but also that there is one extra-powerful member of each species, a paragon if you will, that exemplifies their legendary, undying nature.

Which do I believe? Well, seeing as how this debate is nowhere near settled, and there's not really much evidence for any side (not counting the strange case of Manaphy and Phione), I've decided that I shouldn't state my beliefs on this controversial topic in a book meant for general consumption (I now cheerily await for all three factions to call me a spineless coward). That said, I feel fairly safe in saying there are two Legendaries, Mewtwo and Arceus, who are almost certainly one-of-a-kind. If this is not the case, I may never be able to sleep properly again.

As I said before, Legendaries are the subject of many a tale and story, woven deeply into mythology as gods. Normally this would be easy to dismiss as the wild exaggerations of uneducated folk, but to be frank, when it comes to Pokémon of this stature we don't dare dismiss anything until we definitively prove it false.

For Further Reading: _Gods In Your Pocket?_ by Professor Pit Icarus


	13. Pokémon Breeding

**Pokémon Breeding**

I'll tell you when you're older.

…You won't let me get away with that, will you? All right, but don't expect diagrams or overly-detailed descriptions. I want this book to be available for those under 18.

Practically any Pokémon can mate with any other. They have certain…bits…that are capable of great stretching or inflation when it comes to other…bits. This has been the subject of many, many tasteless jokes, and that's all I'm giving you on that.

However, mating is different from breeding. Not every two species of Pokémon are genetically compatible enough with one another to create offspring. Instead, each species belongs to one or two "egg groups." A Pokémon can only breed with those species that it shares at least one egg group with. These egg groups are each comprised of Pokémon that are similar enough to one other to produce viable offspring. I'm sure you've grasped this, but just to cover my bases: A Pokémon who belongs to both groups A and B can breed with any member of either group, but a Pokémon who only belongs to group A cannot breed with one who only belongs to group B.

Everybody got that?

And now that I've told you the rule, I'm going to tell you that it's not true. There are some exceptions for "genderless" Pokémon which reproduce in different ways. In order to save my present self the trouble, I'll discuss each of those methods on a species-by-species basis in the individual profiles. Unfortunately, I can hear my future self cursing me for this, and I'm sure that when the two of us catch up with one another, he'll punish me with lots of alcohol.

But for most Pokémon, there are simple breeding rules. When two Pokémon breed, the offspring will be a member of the mother's earliest evolutionary stage, but they will often instinctively know how to perform a move known by the father. This is because when the Pokémon learns a move, it alters a tiny amount of its genetic code, which its offspring inherits. That these "egg moves" always come from the father suggests that the move-altered coding is somehow tied-in to the part of the genome that determines species. As the female's contribution is always used as the species-determiner, the male's contribution is then automatically used for move-determination.

Oftentimes, Pokémon are born knowing moves that they're never able to learn any other way. This is much like humans and languages; the younger a person starts to learn a language, the easier it is, before their brain has fully hard-coded the linguistics parts of itself. Similarly, if a Pokémon is "taught" a move before it is born, its brain is naturally more inclined to accept a wider ranger of moves (though not all moves; I doubt you'll ever see an aerial Totodile, even if its father was a Charizard that knew Fly). Some moves require several generations to introduce to a species, a long-term view that is referred to as "chain breeding."

To sum up: If a female Pelipper mates with a male Dragonite who knows Twister, then the result will be a Wingull who just might be able to create a tornado. And if a female Dragonite mates with a male Pelipper who knows Supersonic, then the result will be a Dratini who just might be able to create a confusing sound.

As a final note, young trainers are often told that no one is sure where Pokémon eggs come from. This is as much a lie-of-convenience as human children coming from a Delibird.

For Further Information: _The Joy Of Hax_ by Professor Ruth Paheal


	14. Diet

**Diet**

Be sure to keep your Pokémon properly fed. Remember, all species are omnivorous, and the last thing you want is a starving Bidoof attacking you in your sleep out of desperation for a meal. Aside from the horror, it would be far too embarrassing a way to die.

Although they are omnivorous, almost every species has a few foods that it eats the vast majority of the time. As amusing as it is to watch a Feraligatr daintily nip the leaves from low-hanging branches, it's not a sight you'll see that often. Fortunately, your local Poké Mart will be able to tell you where near your residence you can buy whatever kinds of food you need. On the unlikely off-chance that no one in the area stocks what you need, someone will usually be glad to special order it for you. Notes about each Pokémon's diet will be mentioned in their entry in the Field Guide.

There are several manufacturers of Pokémon dry food, not unlike the kibble that many pet owners buy for their dogs or cats. This is available in several different varieties, each tailored to a specific diet (prefers vegetables, prefers fish, prefers land-dwelling meat, etc.). However, while this will satisfy your Pokémon's nutritional requirements, it doesn't do the same for their psychological need to eat their favorite natural food. I recommend giving them chow as close to their instinctive diet as possible.

All Pokémon absolutely love berries, and will eagerly gobble them up at a moment's notice. Berries can roughly be sorted into five categories, based on their taste: spicy, dry, sweet, bitter, and sour. Unfortunately, each Pokémon has a taste category they love and one they can't stand, and these vary from individual to individual, not by species. The only way to figure out what your beloved companions prefer is to give them some berries and note their reactions. There is a handy rule of thumb, however. The berries they enjoy and the ones they don't have a consistent relationship. If they like sour, they dislike bitter; like bitter, dislike sweet; like sweet, dislike dry; like dry, dislike spicy; and like spicy, dislike sour.

Aside from simply being tasty snacks, berries also have uses in fights. A battler can hold onto one, and then gulp it down at anytime to benefit from a special effect. A full list of these effects, and what berries produce them, can be seen in the Berries Appendix near the back of this book.

Berries are also the basis for some snacks that Pokémon love just as much, if not more. One such is the Pokéblock, a type of hard candy. They come in fourteen flavors, based on what kinds of berries and how many are used to make each one. You can buy them in a store, or for the personal touch, you can instead use a Berry Blender to make your own. Another is the Poffin, a kind of baked good, which comes in six varieties, again depending on the berries that go into it. Like the Pokéblocks, you can either buy them or use a pot to make them yourself. Coordinators often feed both Pokéblocks and Poffins to their Pokémon before entering them in Contests, to increase their confidence and make them happy.

Of course, berries aren't the only snack that Pokémon enjoy. They also enjoy a soft, chewy candy called Gummis. Gummis come in flavors specially tailored to each of the seventeen types of Pokémon, as well as a more expensive "wonder" variety that all can savor. Both Gummis and the apricorn fruit can be made into blended drinks that Pokémon enjoy sipping. Poké Cakes are a specialty dessert of the Orre region, and most Pokémon-centered shops run by immigrants from that region will gladly make them for you or even give you the recipe. They're even tasty by human standards, I have to admit (it was late, I wanted a snack and had forgotten to go grocery shopping, and that was all I had around that even resembled dessert, so sue me).

Pokémon also can develop a taste for many foods that humans enjoy as well. One favorite trick of many trainers is to slather a tree with honey, and wait for a hungry critter to investigate before attempting a capture. Some photographers have been known to use apples as bait, luring their subjects into a more camera-friendly position. Sodas, lemonade, and other drinks are general favorites. Unlike "normal" animals, chocolate is perfectly safe for them to eat, if not the best choice for their dental hygiene. And some Pokémon simply have an idiosyncratic taste for a type of human food not necessarily shared by others of their kind. I know of one trainer who often fixes rice balls for his team, and another whose favorite companion drinks ketchup like it was water.

A good trainer will soon learn not to simply dish out these treats at the drop of a hat, however, not at first at any rate. They can be an essential part of your training regimen. If they're naughty and don't listen to you, then withhold their favorite snacks, and be sure to stand firm. On the other hand, if they obey extraordinarily well, give them two of their favorites instead of one. They'll soon make the connection between good behavior and yumminess. Once you've had them for a good long while and have formed a true bond, with proper conduct innate, you can treat them more often.

Inevitably, your Pokémon's teeth will need cleaning. This is not the proper method to instruct you on the finer points of dentistry, so when you first receive it, I suggest you ask one of the experts at the Pokémon Center to show you the proper method. It's vitally important you learn from someone experienced. It's no big deal if a Goldeen nips you while you're cleaning its mouth, but if it's a Carvanha, you'll be lucky to still have all your fingers after your carelessness.

In the wild, of course, many Pokémon eat each other. Don't even think of using that as a way to feed your companions, though. Wild Pokémon don't have many other options. You have plenty. Remember that all species may be sentient. There are plenty of animals out there that aren't anywhere near as intelligent that you can use to sate your Pokémon's desire for meat.

For Further Reading: _Pokémon In The Kitchen_ by Professor Gordon Kaga


	15. Other Worlds

**Other Worlds**

As I mentioned in a previous chapter, Poké Balls transport their targets to another dimension. Hopefully, those of you who didn't know this already were curious about the destination.

Recently, my colleague Professor Odamaki Birch led an expedition into the other dimension. Why hasn't this been done before? Well, Pokémon are shrunk before they're pulled through, and the hole in space-time they travel through is smaller than your fingernail. Their small size is the only reason they're able to be mass-produced. On the other hand, a gateway large enough to accommodate even a child is almost ludicrously expensive, to say nothing of one to allow several adults through. That's why the Birch Expedition is, to date, the only one to have made the journey.

The other dimension is very Earth-like, but with some interesting properties. The first of these are what Professor Birch has dubbed "Friend Areas." They're small zones where Pokémon congregate once they've been captured in the Poké Balls. They tend to congregate by type. Interestingly, there are a limited number of Friend Areas that appear over and over again (for a list and description of the Friend Areas, see the related Appendix). Professor Birch is by no means a man quick to jump to judgment, but he has stated that these repeating zones have caused him to consider the unsettling idea that the other dimension has been deliberately _designed_ by forces unknown.

Certain other areas of the dimension change and shift, their geography altering seemingly at random from day to day; maps are worse-than-useless in places like this, a fact which caused a frustrated Professor Birch to name them "Mystery Dungeons." Perhaps even more than Friend Areas, this deeply unnerved the expedition.

Aside from the Poké Ball dimension, there are believed to be other worlds as well. Some of the most powerful Legendaries are believed to spend most of their time in them, such as Dialga, Palkia, Giratina, and Arceus. As well, there is also a theory that Unown have either originally come from another dimension, or are capable of going to and living in one.

The current home of most dimensional research is the otherwise quiet, small town of Michina, which (among other things) houses the Time-Space Axis, an experimental device that tries to monitor other worlds, with varying degrees of success. Porygon-Z was originally engineered as a species with the intended purpose of exploring these dimensions, but so far that hasn't panned out.

For Further Reading: _Mystery Dungeons: The Story Of The Birch Expedition_ _And Hypotheses On Further Worlds _by Professor Odamaki Birch


	16. Field Guide Introduction

**Field Guide**

All right, this is what you've been waiting for (at least, I assume this is what you've been waiting for, as it makes up over 90% of this book; if this is not what you've been waiting for, I sincerely apologize).

By now, you should have all the information and education you need to understand everything in the Field Guide. If there's something you don't understand, but I talk about it like you should, blame my editor, as it means he's moved it to an appendix (actually, don't blame my editor; he's a very scary man and possesses the power of Life And Death). Before we jump on in, I'm going to walk you through the basics of the Field Guide, what kind of information will be in each entry, that sort of thing.

Entries will be sorted by species number, but all members of evolution families will be placed together, regardless of number. Unless otherwise noted, all Pokémon listed together evolve by leveling up.

**Names**

Every species of Pokémon has at least two names, and some have three. For example, Bulbasaur is also known as Fushigidane and as the "Seed Pokémon." To understand why, you have to look at the history of Pokémon science.

The first serious studies of Pokémon were done by several different researchers, all working independently of one another, so there was no standardization. Two of the most prominent early researchers referred to the creatures they studied by whatever they were commonly known as by the local people. However, since they studied in different areas, they often (but not always) found different names; hence, Bulbasaur and Fushigidane. The third major researcher, meanwhile, named them after whatever description first came to his mind after seeing it; hence, Seed Pokémon. The fact that he re-used names on more than one occasion did not seem to bother him in the least.

Eventually these three became aware of one another and got together to join forces. When they started to consolidate their research, they quickly became aware of the name disparities. The two who used the common names easily resolved the problem with a flip of a coin, choosing one set to be the properly used name (Bulbasaur) and (when there was one), the other a distinctive name (Fushigidane) to be used only in certain cases, such as discussing the Pokémon's presence in the region that gave it this name.

Unfortunately, the third researcher was, to be frank, a bit of a jackass, and he refused to share his data unless his names were used as well. The other two thus agreed that all Pokémon would also be given a descriptor name, and this has remained the standard to this day.

In this guide, I'll give the proper name first, followed by any distinctive name. Descriptor names are rarely used at all these days, but I'll be giving them as well, for completeness's sake. However, your humble author has a favor to beg of you, gentle readers: please, please, do not use descriptor names. The many duplicate names make them mostly worse-than-useless. Also, consider it a posthumous slap at that jackass.

**Typing**

This is which one or two of the seventeen types the species has.

**Range**

Well, this is fairly simple. I'll list in what regions a Pokémon can be found, near what local landmarks and routes. Honestly, even I can't stretch this out any longer.

**Habitat**

The range describes where you'll find a Pokémon. This describes what kind of terrain you'll find them in; mountainous, grassland, etc. This can help you prepare before you go on a Pokémon hunt, so you can wear clothes and bring equipment suited to the area.

**Egg Groups**

This lists which egg groups the species belongs to. Any other species that shares at least one egg group with it can breed with it.

**Difficulty Ratings**

Every species of Pokémon will be given three different ratings, all on a scale from 1 to 10. The first rating is _Location Difficulty_, how hard it is to find a member of the species. The second rating is _Acquisition Difficulty_, how hard it is to capture a member of the species once found. The third rating is _Ownership Difficulty_, how hard it is to properly raise and care for a member of the species once found and captured.

As a general rule of thumb, you should try and work your way up through the ratings. Don't hunt alone for a Pokémon with a higher Location Difficulty until you've cut your teeth looking for some with a rating of 1, 2, or 3, or you might find yourself lost and in over your head. Don't try to capture a Pokémon with a higher Acquisition Difficulty until you've taken down some with a rating of 1, 2, or 3, or you might find yourself with fainted companions and a wild, enraged animal coming at you. Don't try to raise a Pokémon with a higher Ownership Difficulty until you've nurtured some with a rating of 1, 2, or 3, or you might find your residence in ruins. In particular, don't even consider going after something with a rating of 8, 9, or 10 in any category until you've had at least a few years of experience as a trainer, preferably around five or so for those rated 10.

**Diet**

What the Pokémon likes to eat, and if you find yourself forced to use a brand of manufactured food, what variety you should get.

**Physical Description**

What the species of Pokémon generally looks like. This includes size, shape, method of locomotion, coloration, etc.

You should note that every species has an alternate coloration, a very rare phenotype that only shows up about once every eight thousand times thanks to the interaction of several recessive genes. Individuals with these colorations are known as _shiny Pokémon_, because on occasion they also emit a bright sparkle and a chiming sound, a side-effect of those genes interacting. I'll describe what the shiny coloration of each species looks like as well.

**Behavior**

How this Pokémon is likely to behave, both in the wild and domesticated.

**Proper Care**

How to properly care for a member of the species in your home.

**Notes**

Anything else I think you should know or that I simply want to tell you.


	17. Field Guide: 001, 002, 003

**#001**

**Names**

Bulbasaur (proper name)

Fushigidane (distinctive name)

Seed Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Grass/Poison

**Range**

Native to Kanto, most now bred domestically. Some wild populations may be found around the Cerulean City area of Kanto, around the Fortree City area of Hoenn, in the Lyra Forest of Fiore, and on Dolce Island and Dontsuki Cape in Oblivia.

**Habitat**

Typically prefers grasslands, also commonly found in forests.

**Egg Groups**

Monster, Plant

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 6. Very common domestically, but hard to find in the wilderness. Aside from their rarity in the wild, their coloration can sometimes make them hard to spot, especially in forested areas.

Acquisition Difficulty: 6. Not the most powerful battlers in the world, but can put up a surprising fight against being sucked into a Poké Ball.

Ownership Difficulty: 2. Have very little in the way of special needs or temper, are generally very loyal once their trust has been earned. Even-tempered and child safe.

**Diet**

Prefers nutrient-rich soil; any dry food "loamy mixture" will do as a substitute. On the rare occasions it desires meat, usually prefers small non-Pokémon animals such as rodents. Requires a fair amount of sunlight, either real or artificial.

**Physical Description**

Reptilian quadruped, primarily teal-colored with small, irregularly-shaped darker-colored markings. Red eyes and pointy ears, both large in proportion to face. Large, greenish bulb on the back, typically light in color. Can stand and walk on their hind legs for brief periods of time. Average size 2 feet 4 inches (0.7 meters). Cry: a low-pitched croak.

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration a much lighter shade of green, markings remain the same color. Bulb a very dark shade of green.

**Behavior**

Often found in medium-sized packs but willing to go solo. If one forms a strong attachment to someone, whether human or Pokémon, it can remain loyal over a period of even years without seeing the individual. Attacks prey with moves such as Tackle, Leech Seed, and Vine Whip, and defends itself with moves such as Growl, Poison Powder, and Sleep Powder. Typically begins confrontations by hopping from side-to-side or letting out a small cry. In domestic situations, often enjoys laying in the sunlight cast by windows or frolicking in yards. Also enjoys being in the rain, but can become grumpy if stuck inside when it rains due to no sunshine and no access to the falling water; can be cheered back up by putting it in the shower for a few minutes. Gets along well with just about everyone, including children, and can be easily taught that non-Pokémon animals at home are not food.

**Proper Care**

A Bulbasaur is very easy to keep at home. If you choose to feed it real dirt instead of the loam-mimicking dry food, be sure to do this in an area without a carpet to make cleanup easier. Also regarding dirt, while it can subsist off of your own yard's soil, to keep it at it's healthiest you should buy a proper mixture from a local Poké Mart or other store. Thankfully, this is (pardon the pun) dirt cheap. It will require meat every now and then, roughly once a month. You should also keep a large pot full of water in the food area, not only for it to drink with its mouth but also to climb in and soak, absorbing with its whole body; in a pinch, the bathtub also works. Change the water about once a week. It won't require much grooming, just make sure to check the bulb for unhealthy looking spots every now and then.

**Notes**

The bulb on its back is not a separate organism but part of a Bulbasaur's natural anatomy. It grows and changes along with the rest of it, and is a very vital part of its body. Rumors to the contrary notwithstanding, it cannot survive having the bulb removed. This is not simply "an animal wearing a plant" but an animal with many plant-like characteristics.

In battle, a Bulbasaur can manipulate the bulb for a variety of effects, from slashing with temporarily-sprouted vines to launching complex seeds that drain energy from a victim and transmit it back to the Bulbasaur. If a battle takes a turn for the worse, the Pokémon can drain its stores of solar power to boost the effectiveness of its Grass-type moves, a desperate gamble known as Overgrow.

Most specimens of Bulbasaur are loyal, affectionate, and sweet right from the start, and earning their trust is very easy. It's a wonderful choice as your beginning Pokémon, whether you want to use it for battle or just as a friend, and countless trainers in Kanto would agree with me. It will be a devoted companion as long as you know each other.

**#002**

**Names**

Ivysaur (proper name)

Fushigisou (distinctive name)

Seed Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Grass/Poison

**Range**

Native to Kanto, most now bred domestically. Some wild populations may be found around the Cerulean City area of Kanto, around the Fortree City area of Hoenn, in the Lyra Forest of Fiore, and on Dontsuki Cape in Oblivia; most specimens that had lived on Dolce Island as Bulbasaur migrate away upon evolution.

**Habitat**

Typically prefers grasslands, also commonly found in forests.

**Egg Groups**

Monster, Plant

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 6. Very common domestically, but hard to find in the wilderness. Their increased size makes them easier to spot than Bulbasaur, but this is offset by there being fewer of them.

Acquisition Difficulty: 7. More powerful than Bulbasaur, and still possessing that stubborn resistance to being caught in a Poké Ball.

Ownership Difficulty: 3. Can occasionally be grouchy, but these moods pass quickly. Diet a little more varied than Bulbasaur.

**Diet**

Prefers nutrient-rich soil; any dry food "loamy mixture" will do as a substitute. Has a greater appetite for meat, and in the wild is willing to try and go after riskier prey such as Rattata, thanks to its superior power. Requires a fair amount of sunlight, either real or artificial.

**Physical Description**

Reptilian quadruped, primarily teal-colored with small, irregularly-shaped darker-colored markings; Kanto and Johto specimens prone to being a darker shade of teal, verging on blue. Red eyes and pointy ears, in proportion to face. Two large teeth visible even when mouth closed. Large, bright pink flower bud on the back, surrounded by four green fronds. Can stand, but not walk, on their hind legs for brief periods of time. Average size 3 feet 3 inches (1 meter). Cry: a low-pitched croak that sounds like a roar at the end.

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration a much lighter shade of green, markings remain the same color. Flower bud bright gold.

**Behavior**

Sometimes found in small packs, more typically solo. Goes after prey more often, luring them in with Sweet Scent before using moves such as Vine Whip and Razor Leaf to defeat them. Typically begins confrontations by rearing up on their hind legs, crouching low to the ground, sitting in a defensive stance, jumping briefly, or roaring and leaning back. In domestic situations, they need some personal space and take less kindly to being annoyed. Will want to spend more time outside to roam around in the sun or rain; the shower is unlikely to be a satisfying substitute.

**Proper Care**

An Ivysaur requires a little more care and attention than a Bulbasaur, but not too much. They need higher relative quantities of meat in their diet. With a Bulbasaur you could get away with just tossing it a steak once a month or so. Not so here. You'll have to feed it meat on a regular basis, roughly once a week. If you want, you can take it outside and let it hunt for itself, catching whatever non-Pokémon small animals live near your residence; or you can simply buy some pre-prepared meat from the Poké Mart. Of course, you can't neglect its need for high-quality soil, either, nor for a large basin of water for it to soak in and drink from, which you need to change about once a week. When you change the water, this is also a good time to remind yourself to examine the Ivysaur's fronds for infestations by aphids or similar insects.

**Notes**

The flower bud of an Ivysaur, especially of a shiny one, is highly prized for its beauty, as well as the sweet aroma that can be made into a perfume. However, do not forget that it is a vital part of its anatomy and must not be removed while the Ivysaur is alive. Pokémon experts can spot the signs that tell whether it was taken before or after death, and if we see that it was the former, we will bring official wrath down on you.

An Ivysaur in battle can boost its attack power by using Growth to temporarily enlarge its cells and smash an opponent with Take Down or Double-Edge, albeit at risk to itself. On the brink of defeat, it can tap into its reserves of power with Overgrow.

Despite occasional periods of grumpiness, an Ivysaur will still make for an affectionate Pokémon that you can trust to always have your side, and like as not, your heart.

**#003**

**Names**

Venusaur (proper name)

Fushigibana (distinctive name)

Seed Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Grass/Poison

**Range**

Native to Kanto, most now bred domestically. Some wild populations may be found around the Cerulean City area of Kanto, around the Fortree City area of Hoenn, in the Lyra Forest of Fiore, and on Ratorato Mountain Path in Oblivia; specimens that had lived on Dolce Island and Dontsuki Cape as Bulbasaur and Ivysaur migrate away upon evolution and repel intruders who are not fully evolved themselves.

**Habitat**

Typically prefers grasslands, also commonly found in forests.

**Egg Groups**

Monster, Plant

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 6. Very common domestically, but hard to find in the wilderness. It's hard to miss a Venusaur lumbering along, but they're so rare they can be hard to find in the first place.

Acquisition Difficulty: 8. They're very tough battlers, and their resistance to getting pulled into a Poké Ball is still as high as ever.

Ownership Difficulty: 4. In this stage of life, they're typically very calm and accommodating, but with their sheer size and power, they could cause problems without meaning to.

**Diet**

Derives most energy from photosynthesis; soil needs are much reduced, needs for meat even more so.

**Physical Description**

Reptilian quadruped, primarily teal-colored. Skin covered with wart-like bumps or, rarely, retains the darker markings of their earlier states. Red eyes and pointy ears, in proportion to face. Several teeth visible even when mouth closed. Large stem on the back, resembling a tree trunk. Stem topped by large flower with five or six petals, colored red with white spots. Female's stem has large seed nestled in the middle. Cannot stand on hind legs. Average size 6 feet 7 inches (2 meters). Cry: a low-pitched croak, sounding like a roar throughout.

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration a much lighter shade of green. Flower petals bright gold with white spots.

**Behavior**

Almost always solo, except when mating and parenting. Rarely hunts prey. Hard to rouse to anger, but hard to calm once angry. If attacked, defends itself with Petal Dance and, in tougher situations, the powerful Solar Beam. Typically begins confrontations by roaring or stomping one or more feet on the ground. In domestic situations, typically very calm and patient. Will allow children to play on it with no fuss. Secure in its power and strength.

**Proper Care**

A Venusaur doesn't need too much care. Now that it's in its final evolution, it's typically very composed and relaxed. Make sure it has access to plenty of sunlight, whether from the sun itself or from artificial sources; this is the primary source of energy and nutrition for a Venusaur. It still needs nutritious soil or a "loamy mixture" substitute, but nowhere near as much as in its previous evolutionary states; a bucket's worth once a week will satisfy. It needs even less meat, perhaps one large steak every few months. You will need a very large washtub for it to soak in; if you owned it as a Bulbasaur or an Ivysaur, the old tub will be far too small. Once a month, check the flower for any kind of infestation.

What you really need to worry about is the fact that in this stage, a Venusaur is very big, quite a bit larger than its previous states. It may accidentally smash into or break things until it becomes used to its new size. Keep a close eye on it, and let it know that it will no longer be allowed in bed to cuddle with you.

**Notes**

The enormous bloom, while worth a lot, is a vital part of a Venusaur's anatomy and must not, under any circumstances, be removed while the Pokémon is still alive.

This Pokémon can take a great many blows before falling in battle, and is a powerhouse, especially if it boosts its Grass-type moves with Overgrow. Solar Beam in particular can smash through many defenses in that state.

If you obtain it in this final form, you can very easily earn its trust by the simple expedient of caring for it and being understanding in the almost-inevitable circumstance of it breaking something. And if you've owned it through its previous evolutionary states, then the Venusaur's loyalty will have become so ingrained by this point that it will be not just faithful to you, but to your family and closest friends, whom it has come to know and care for. Any children, in particular, it will care for as if they were blood relatives, and will happily let them clamber all over it. It will even give them rides.

In short, whether Bulbasaur, Ivysaur, or Venusaur, you can't go wrong with any member of this evolutionary line, whether as your very first Pokémon or as a later addition to your family. It will be a loving member either way.

For Further Reading: _Sowing The Seeds Of Love_ by Professor Neville Rafflesia


	18. Field Guide: 004, 005, 006

**#004**

**Names**

Charmander (proper name)

Hitokage (distinctive name)

Lizard Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Fire

**Range**

Native to Kanto, most now bred domestically. Some wild populations may be found around the Vermilion City area of Kanto, in the Jungle Relic of the Olive Jungle in Fiore, in Boyleland Volcano in Almia, and on Faldera Island in Oblivia.

**Habitat**

Prefers rocky, mountainous terrain, such as volcanoes. Some wild populations have adapted to grassland or deserted ruins.

**Egg Groups**

Monster, Dragon

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 5. Very common domestically, but hard to find in the wild. Bright coloration and flame makes them visible.

Acquisition Difficulty: 6. Can't stand against a serious offensive, but quite good at breaking out of Poké Balls.

Ownership Difficulty: 3. Usually timid and shy, but the flame could cause problems for inexperienced or ill-prepared trainers.

**Diet**

Prefers small animals, such as rodents; any dry food "small carnivore mix" will do as a substitute. Occasionally searches for dead, dry wood. Enjoys charcoal as a treat.

**Physical Description**

Bipedal lizard, primarily orange with cream-colored underbelly and soles. Blue eyes, large in proportion to face. Two small teeth sometimes visible when mouth closed. Tail has small flame constantly burning on the tip. Some Kanto specimens have tiny ridges along the length of the spine. Average size 2 feet (0.6 meters). Cry: a brief, high-pitched roar.

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration bright gold, underbelly and soles remain the same color.

**Behavior**

Hunts in small packs, spends most time between hunts alone. If fighting by itself, it attacks with Scratch and Ember, and uses Growl to minimize the damage coming its way. May also use Smoke Screen to reduce the chances of being hit at all. Begins most confrontations by roaring and slapping its hands together, jumping in place, or dancing from side-to-side. In domestic situations, typically shy and unassuming, enjoys scampering around and gentle play. Tries to spend time only with its trainer.

**Proper Care**

A Charmander will adapt to domestic life fairly easily. Just be sure to keep it properly fed and watered. What you have to worry about most is the flame on the end of its tail. The flame is typically kept at such a low intensity that it won't burn anything. However, should the Charmander become startled, upset, or angry, it may instinctively amp up the heat of the flame to a level where it could ignite something. You should therefore try to keep it calm, happy, and relaxed at all times, just as you would any other animal. Unfortunately, sometimes this can happen when it is asleep and has a bad dream. This is why you should also invest in smoke detectors and fire extinguishers. It will learn better control as it grows up.

**Notes**

The tail flame is produced as the result of certain chemicals reacting with highly-specialized cells at the tip of the tail. It also possesses these cells in its mouth, and can channel the chemicals there to breathe fire. The fire is a fairly accurate barometer of the Charmander's health; the brighter it burns, the better state it's in. If it weakens, you should have it looked at. If it passes away, the flame will die.

In battle, a Charmander can use its chemicals and cells for several effects, such as blowing flame or lashing it from the tip of its tail, or also generating large clouds of smoke. If a battle goes badly, it can flood itself with a temporary rush of flammable chemicals, a state called Blaze.

Generally, a Charmander will be kind and loving, especially once their initial shyness has been overcome. You can't go wrong picking it as your starter.

**#005**

**Names**

Charmeleon (proper name)

Lizardo (distinctive name)

Flame Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Fire

**Range**

Native to Kanto, most now bred domestically. Some wild populations may be found around the Vermilion City area of Kanto, in the Jungle Relic of the Olive Jungle in Fiore, in Boyleland Volcano in Almia, and on Faldera Island in Oblivia.

**Habitat**

Prefers rocky, mountainous terrain, such as volcanoes. Some wild populations have adapted to grassland or deserted ruins.

**Egg Groups**

Monster, Dragon

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 5. Very common domestically, but hard to find in the wilderness. Less shy and more aggressive than Charmander, but fewer of them.

Acquisition Difficulty: 7. Can put up a decent battle, and quite resistant to being pulled into a Poké Ball.

Ownership Difficulty: 4. Not as well-behaved as Charmander, and their flames are slightly more intense.

**Diet**

Prefers small animals, such as rodents, and similarly-sized Pokémon, thanks to their increased power; any dry food "small carnivore mix" will do as a substitute. Occasionally searches for dry, dead wood. Enjoys charcoal as a treat.

**Physical Description**

Bipedal lizard, primarily reddish-orange with cream-colored underbelly and soles. Blue eyes, in proportion to face. Face ends in a beak-shape; some Kanto specimens have more of a snout. Crest extending from the back of the head; resembles a horn in some Kanto specimens. Large claws on hands and feet. Tail has flame constantly burning on the tip. Average size 3 feet 7 inches (1.1 meters). Cry: a brief, moderately high-pitched roar.

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration bright gold, underbelly and soles remain the same color.

**Behavior**

Generally hunts and lives alone, except during mating periods. Uses its sharp claws to attack with Slash, and its flame to assail with Dragon Rage and Fire Fang. If an enemy proves dangerous, it may use Scary Face to slow them down. Begins most confrontations by slashing its claws through the air or jumping slightly off the ground. In domestic situations, often tries to assert dominance over its trainer, other household members, and even visitors. Full of energy, often running and leaping throughout the residence. Hot-headed and stubborn.

**Proper Care**

Compared to its original form, a Charmeleon requires more careful handling. With its augmented strength, most specimens acquire an ego to match. They tend to think that they're in charge. You need to stand firm and remind them that you're still the boss of the household. No matter how angry it gets, it won't actually attack you in one of these dominance stand-offs, so don't back down; if you do, it will see you as a pushover, whereas if you don't, it will respect you. Regrettably, since its temper is so short, its flame will reach the ignition stage much more often, and you'll have to keep a closer watch on the surroundings. Keeping multiple fire extinguishers around the house might be wise.

**Notes**

The tail flame, made by chemicals and specialized cells, continues to serve as an indicator of the Charmeleon's health. Also, should it become truly enraged, the flame will become so hot that it changes color, from orangeish-yellow to bluish-white. Be extremely careful of ignition at these times.

In battle, it will rely on the added cutting power of its claws and the similary-boosted strength of its flame. Should it fare poorly, it can enter the Blaze state for a further increase to its (pardon the pun) fire power.

Despite its arrogance, a Charmeleon will remain loyal and loving to you in most situations, including those where you need it the most. You just have to learn to put up with its occasional tantrums.

**#006**

**Names**

Charizard (proper name)

Lizardon (distinctive name)

Flame Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Fire/Flying

**Range**

Native to Kanto, most now bred domestically. Some wild populations may be found around the Vermilion City area of Kanto, in the Charicific Valley in Johto, in the Jungle Relic of the Olive Jungle in Fiore, and in Boyleland Volcano in Almia; the population of Charmander and Charmeleon on Faldera Island in Oblivia migrate away upon reaching their final evolution.

**Habitat**

Prefers rocky, mountainous terrain, such as volcanoes. Some wild populations have adapted to grassland or deserted ruins.

**Egg Groups**

Monster, Dragon

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 5. Very common domestically, but hard to find in the wild. Massive size, bright coloration make them stand out despite rare numbers.

Acquisition Difficulty: 8. Puts up a tough fight, and just as tough as always to get into a Poké Ball.

Ownership Difficulty: 5. Possesses quite a bit of power, and its competitive edge remains as strong as ever.

**Diet**

Prefers small-to-medium sized animals and Pokémon; any dry food "large carnivore mix" will do as a substitute. Occasionally searches for dead, dry wood, up to ripping apart entire fallen trees. Enjoys charcoal as a treat.

**Physical Description**

Bipedal lizard, primarily orange with cream-colored underbelly and soles. Large, membranous wings; front side blue, back side orange. Blue eyes with small irises. Face ends in a beak-shape. Two large teeth visible even when mouth closed. Two crests protruding from the back of head. Large claws on hands and feet. Long tail has large flame constantly burning on the tip. Average size 5 feet 7 inches (1.7 meters). Cry: a brief roar, dropping once in pitch.

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration purplish-green, underbelly and soles remain the same color. Front side of wings an iridescent red and bright green, back side purplish-green as well.

**Behavior**

Largely solitary, but sometimes convene in groups to spar and train with one another. Batters prey with Wing Attack. Against an evenly-matched or stronger opponent, uses Flamethrower; never against a weaker opponent. In an emergency, may use Flare Blitz despite the move hurting itself as well. Begins most confrontations by roaring or flapping its wings. In domestic situations, occasionally willful and intractable. Needs room to fly. Competitive and proud.

**Proper Care**

Handling a Charizard isn't much worse than doing the same with a Charmeleon. Most (but not all) of the arrogance and ego it acquired as a Charmeleon has gone away, replaced with a proud streak a mile long. It will generally obey instructions, although I do know one trainer whose Charizard became _very_ disloyal for a brief period of time, but that was a severe exception. Your main problem will be that its flame is at the peak of its power and intensity, and you should expect quite a few ignition moments. Also, its dietary needs have increased along with its size. If you feed it dry food, you'll have to switch from a "small carnivore mix" to a "large carnivore mix." If you feed it natural food instead, then you'll have to switch from rodents and similar animals to bigger pre-killed food, such as cattle and horse meat. You can take it hunting for food, but there are not too many wild animals of the proper size; most are Pokémon, or belong to farmers who are unlikely to view predation with kindness. If it tries to subsist on small prey, it would have to hunt practically the entire day to meet its needs. Finally, you should be aware of its new wingspan, which can occasionally result in some broken items around your residence until the Charizard gets used to its changed body. It will also need to exercise its flying powers from time to time.

**Notes**

As always, you should play special attention to the flame at the end of its tail; the state of it continues to serve as a guide to its health. If it becomes furious, the flame will become white-hot and almost painful to look at. In these cases, ignition of a nearby object is almost certain. Several forest fires have been started by a Charizard in this state.

In battle, it typically refuses to use its flame on weaker opponents out of competitive honor, unless directly ordered by a trainer. Otherwise, it likes to rip and tear with its claws and smack its adversary with its wings. In seemingly hopeless situations, it floods its fire with chemicals to enter the powered-up Blaze state; when it does this, Flare Blitz turns into a destructive inferno that can scorch almost any enemy. It's not the most amazing defensive Pokémon, but it excels in offense. It hits hard, especially with its flame attacks.

Nurturing this Pokémon from its humble beginnings will guarantee you a fiercely loyal friend who will do anything from barbecuing your dinner to protecting your extended family with its life. If you pick it up later, it may take more work to earn its respect, and you can expect more challenges to your authority, but nothing too hard to handle, and it will still fall in line fairly easily.

No matter if it's Charmander, Charmeleon, or Charizard, any of this evolutionary line will be a wonderful member of your family and a loving companion.

For Further Reading: _Fire In Your Heart_ by Professor Pyralis Trogdor


	19. Field Guide: 007, 008, 009

**#007**

**Names**

Squirtle (proper name)

Zenigame (distinctive name)

Tiny Turtle Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Water

**Range**

Native to Kanto, most now bred domestically. Some wild populations may be found around the Vermilion City area of Kanto, the Fall City area of Fiore, and Vien Forest and the marine caves at Nabiki Beach in Almia.

**Habitat**

Prefers to live in and around beaches, small lakes, ponds, and slow-moving rivers. Many have also adapted to grassland and forest.

**Egg Groups**

Monster, Water 1

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 6. Very common domestically, but hard to find in the wild. Rare, shy, and prone to vanishing under the surface of the water.

Acquisition Difficulty: 6. Not particularly hard to subdue, but very resistant to being captured inside a Poké Ball.

Ownership Difficulty: 2. Quiet and gentle, not typically troublemakers, but their occasional gushes of water can prove irritating.

**Diet**

Prefers aquatic grasses and other plants growing in or near water; any dry food "small aquatic vegetarian mix" will do as a substitute. Sometimes takes insects.

**Physical Description**

Bipedal turtle, primarily blue, with beige underbelly divided into several sections. Possesses hard shell, dark brown on top and whitish-gray around the rim. Curled tail. Brown eyes, large in proportion to face. Average size 1 foot 8 inches (0.5 meters). Cry: a moderately high-pitched screech.

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration very light blue, top of shell becomes lime green. Underbelly remains the same.

**Behavior**

Very gregarious, loves to socialize in groups. Tends to hide when humans come around. If necessary, defends itself with Tackle and Water Gun, and will Withdraw into its shell to reduce injury. Begins most confrontations by lifting one foot, lifting one or both arms, wiggling its tail and snapping its beak, or rocking back and forth. In domestic situations, needs time to get used to individuals. Sociable and loving with them afterwards.

**Proper Care**

A Squirtle is very easy to take care of. The hardest part is earning its trust initially. Be patient with it and don't raise your voice. Leave its food in a quiet room where it can eat by itself. Day by day, gradually bring it closer and closer to you until it's willing to eat with you. The second hardest part is keeping things dry once its trust is gained, as it will like to playfully splash you once it gets to like you, and it may take a little while to teach it when this is appropriate and when it isn't. If there's no handy source of water outside, be sure to keep your bathtub full so it can get in and swim around whenever it feels like it.

**Notes**

A Squirtle is one of Kanto's most sociable Pokémon. It does not like to be alone, and having only its trainer for company is often not even enough. For this reason, trainers who start with a Squirtle often accumulate several other Pokémon to keep it happy. Be sure that you don't catch too many too fast for you to take proper care of each, however.

In battle, a Squirtle's glands can release lots of water, which it can then secrete from its mouth or other body parts very quickly, deluging an opponent. It can also pull its head and limbs into its shell to minimize the impact of incoming attacks. If things go badly, it can increase its water production rate, an ability known as Torrent.

Almost every Squirtle will be gentle and sweet once it has come to trust you. If you choose one as your starter Pokémon, you've made a good choice.

**#008**

**Names**

Wartortle (proper name)

Kameil (distinctive name)

Turtle Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Water

**Range**

Native to Kanto, most now bred domestically. Wild populations may be found around the Vermilion City area of Kanto, Lyra Forest in Fiore, and Vien Forest in Almia; the populations in Fall City and Nabiki Beach each migrate upon evolution.

**Habitat**

Prefers to live in and around beaches, small lakes, ponds, and slow-moving rivers. Many have also adapted to grassland and forest.

**Egg Groups**

Monster, Water 1

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 6. Very common domestically, but hard to find in the wild. Rarer than Squirtle, but can often be spotted by their large ears.

Acquisition Difficulty: 7. Can put up a decent fight, and no easy target to be captured in a Poké Ball.

Ownership Difficulty: 3. More energetic than Squirtle, but still very loyal and not prone to causing much trouble.

**Diet**

Prefers aquatic grasses and other plants growing in or near water, as well as small fish; any dry food "small aquatic mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

Bipedal turtle, primarily deep blue in color, with beige underbelly divided into quarters. Possesses hard shell, dark brown on top and whitish-gray around the rim. Tail has two flared curls and is covered in light-colored fur. Ears also covered in large tufts of fur. Noticeable claws on arms. Brown eyes in proportion to face. Two large teeth visible when beak is closed. Average size 3 feet 3 inches (1 meter). Cry: a middle-range screech.

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration light bluish-purple, top of shell becomes lime green. Underbelly remains the same.

**Behavior**

Associates in small groups, but live and hunt alone. Will attack prey with Bite and Aqua Tail, and defend itself with Protect. If outmatched, will use Rapid Spin to simultaneously attack and also propel itself rapidly away through the water. Begins most confrontations by gesturing with its arms, snapping its beak, shaking its belly and tail, or rapidly jumping toward and away from the opponent. In domestic situations, enjoys energetic game play with its trainer and other Pokémon, especially in the water.

**Proper Care**

A Wartortle isn't much harder to take care of than its previous evolution. Mostly, you'll have to be able to keep up with its desire for lots of play. It loves swim tag and other "hunter/prey" type of games. It can even be trained to keep a ball balanced atop a fountain of water so that you can hit the ball to a friend. It will enjoy carrying you on its back as it swims around, your weight providing it with extra exercise and also pleasurable company. You'll also have to pay attention to its furred ears and tail, grooming them with a comb approximately once a week. This serves a dual purpose. First, it keeps them in tip-top shape to maximize their speed and steering in the water. Second, it prevents the growth of mold. In the wild, harmless algae like to grow in them, but inside, all that's likely to appear is mold. This can damage its health, and also that of you and your living companions if it spreads.

**Notes**

A Wartortle is fabled in folklore as being very long-lived, with some tales putting its potential age at roughly 10,000 years. Although this is clearly an extreme exaggeration, nevertheless, due to these stories their tails are regarded as symbols of longevity, and are highly prized especially by the elderly. This is fine if they're harvested from Wartortle that have already passed away, but completely unacceptable if ripped from living specimens, and Pokémon experts like myself can spot the difference, so don't even think about it.

In battle, a Wartortle will bite down on foes with its sharp, toothed beak, or swipe its tail to send a rush of water at them. If injured, it will begin attacking with extra reserves of water, a ploy known as the Torrent state.

A Wartortle will provide you with many happy times with its playful, lively attitude, and as long as you have plenty of towels, you can't really go wrong with one.

**#009**

**Names**

Blastoise (proper name)

Kamex (distinctive name)

Shellfish Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Water

**Range**

Native to Kanto, most now bred domestically. Wild populations may be found around the Vermilion City area of Kanto, the Fall City area of Fiore, Vien Forest in Almia, and Silver Falls in Oblivia; some of the Wartortle of Fiore's Lyra Forest return to Fall City upon their final evolution, but others migrate all the way to Oblivia.

**Habitat**

Prefers to live in and around beaches, small lakes, ponds, and slow-moving rivers. Many have also adapted to grassland and forest.

**Egg Groups**

Monster, Water 1

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 6. Very common domestically, but hard to find in the wild. Quite rare, but their size makes them difficult to miss when they're in the area.

Acquisition Difficulty: 8. Quite hard to take down in a fight and rather prone to breaking out of Poké Balls before they stick.

Ownership Difficulty: 4. Very gentle around humans, but large and clumsy out of water; very strong.

**Diet**

Prefers small fish, as well as aquatic grasses and other plants in or near water; any dry food "medium aquatic mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

Bipedal turtle, primarily deep blue with beige, bulging underbelly divided into several vertical sections. Possesses hard shell, dark brown on top and whitish-gray around the rim. Two large metallic pumps jut out from shoulders. Noticeable claws on arms and feet. Short pointed ears and tail. Brown eyes in proportion to face. Average size 5 feet 3 inches (1.6 meters). Cry: a deep, quiet growl.

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration light bluish-purple, top of shell becomes moss green. Underbelly remains the same.

**Behavior**

Mostly solitary, but have been known to take command of groups of Squirtle or Wartortle. Will attack prey with Skull Bash and Hydro Pump, increase its power with Rain Dance, and protect itself with Iron Defense. Begins most confrontations by leaning forward, bulging its stomach, slashing the air, dropping to all fours, snapping its beak, adjusting its cannons and wiggling its tail, or bouncing in place. In domestic situations, takes life easy. Calm and has a good-humored attitude.

**Proper Care**

A Blastoise loses much of the energetic playfulness of its previous evolution, preferring to take things nice and slow. As a result, it's fairly easy to take care of, especially if you've raised it from its beginnings as a Squirtle and know it well, and are patient enough to forgive its almost inevitable smashing into something. Your main concern should be its pumps. You should clean them every couple of weeks to prevent any chance of rust (in nature, they get Squirtle or Wartortle to do this for them). Also, beware the possibility of water damage from them. These pumps have been known to blast through steel, so take the time to make sure that it knows only to fire them outside. Speaking of outside, a Blastoise's increased size means that your bathtub will no longer be large enough for it. It needs a natural body of water to swim around in, or, failing that, a swimming pool.

**Notes**

A Blastoise's pumps are metallic, similar in composition to many Steel-typed Pokémon. Should it be necessary, they are capable of withdrawing into the shell like the rest of its body, and covered with shell plates that act like hatches. It is believed that these pumps evolved through a similar process as did the jet propulsion mechanisms in cephalopods and other mollusks. Indeed, a Blastoise will often use its pumps in just such a method to increase its speed underwater.

In battle, it can fire incredibly powerful surges of water from its pumps, or use its thick skull as a battering ram. In bad situations, it can also dip into its liquid reserves to increase its water attacks in a Torrent.

Any member of this evolutionary family will make for a loyal protector, caring companion, and loving friend, and an excellent choice as either a starter Pokémon or a later addition to your household.

For Further Reading: _Turtle Power_ by Professor Laird Eastman


	20. Field Guide: 010, 011, 012

**#010**

**Names**

Caterpie (proper name)

Caterpie (distinctive name)

Worm Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Bug

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found in Viridian Forest and along Routes 2, 24, and 25 in Kanto, in Ilex Forest, the National Park, and Routes 30 and 31 in Johto, in Eterna Forest and along Route 204 in Sinnoh, and in the Pattern Bush in the Sevii Islands.

**Habitat**

Usually confined to forests and adjoining grasslands, some live in quiet, protected reserves with few to no predators.

**Egg Groups**

Bug

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 2. Although restricted to just a few areas, very common in those areas; harder _not_ to find them.

Acquisition Difficulty: 1. Has almost no resistance to being captured in a Poké Ball, and very easy to weaken in a fight.

Ownership Difficulty: 1. Aside from removing an old, empty skin every now and then, require almost no specialized care.

**Diet**

Prefers fallen leaves, tree bark, and other such forest detritus; any dry food "small arthropod vegetarian mix" will do as a substitute, as will bowls of salad. Enjoys bits of fruit as a treat.

**Physical Description**

Crawling insect, primarily leafy green, with beige sectioned underbelly. Possesses five yellow rings in a line down each side of body. Black eyes, large in proportion to face, each surrounded by a yellow ring. Yellow, exclamation point-shaped tail, sometimes with reddish tint. Red-orange, Y-shaped antenna on head. Circular mouth. Four visible feet, covered by suction pads. Average size 1 foot (0.3 meters). Cry: A two-note chirping.

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration dull gold, other colors remain the same.

**Behavior**

Crawls about the forest floor, up and down trees as well. Largely unmindful of humans. If attacked, defends itself with Tackle and Bug Bite, and slow its opponent with String Shot. Can also release a foul stench from its antenna. Begins most confrontations by rearing up, throbbing its antenna and blinking, rocking back and forth on its tail, or undulating quickly. In domestic situations, curious and inquiring. Likes to explore every inch of its living quarters.

**Proper Care**

A Caterpie is very easy to care for. It won't cause trouble or trash your house or anything like that. The worst you have to worry about is cleaning up the occasional shed skin and bit of string it leaves around (or on you, if it's feeling mischievous). As a very curious Pokémon, and one with natural suction cups, you may notice it climbing up the walls or even across the ceiling. This is harmless, to both it and your residence. If you'd like to keep it intellectually stimulated, then rearrange your furniture every now and then, or buy some rodent habitats or cat trees for them to explore. Also, if it's horribly scared, it will release an equally horrible smell from its antenna. Don't worry, though. The stench begins to fade in just a few minutes and will be completely gone in less than an hour. During or after a fight, it may shed somewhat, but this shouldn't happen in your home and won't be a problem for you.

**Notes**

The antenna on a Caterpie's head is properly called an osmeterium. There, now you can impress someone at a party with that fact.

In battle, a Caterpie will bind its opponents in strings of silk, slowing them down. It will also charge weakly into them, or inflict a surprisingly nasty bite and steal any berries it happens to be holding. It's naturally coated with Shield Dust which can prevent dangerous side-effects from many attacks.

Due to the ease of both catching one and caring for one, a Caterpie is often one of the first Pokémon a novice trainer catches, if not a common starter. You won't go wrong if you follow that example and adopt one early in your Pokémon journey.

**#011**

**Names**

Metapod (proper name)

Trancell (distinctive name)

Cocoon Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Bug

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found in Viridian Forest and along Routes 2, 24, and 25 in Kanto, in Ilex Forest, the National Park, and Routes 30 and 31 in Johto, in Eterna Forest and along Route 204 in Sinnoh, and in the Pattern Bush in the Sevii Islands.

**Habitat**

Usually confined to forests and adjoining grasslands, some live in quiet, protected reserves with few to no predators.

**Egg Groups**

Bug

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 3. A little rarer than Caterpie, but not by much. Can be found in large numbers in their habitats.

Acquisition Difficulty: 4. Can take a little beating, and are better at escaping a Poké Ball's grip, but not by too much.

Ownership Difficulty: 1. Of all Pokémon, this is certainly one of the easiest ones to own.

**Diet**

Prefers fallen leaves, tree bark, and other such forest detritus; any dry food "small arthropod vegetarian mix" will do as a substitute, as will bowls of salad. Enjoys bits of fruit as a treat. Eats very little; some quickly evolving specimens may not eat at all in this stage.

**Physical Description**

Curved chrysalis, leafy green; most convex, resting on stomach, but a few Kanto specimens concave, resting on back. Skin a set of hard plates fitting tightly together. Plates can open slightly around the mouth. Eyes white with small black pupil, unshielded and typically half-lidded. Two ear-like protrusions jutting backwards. Plates form two encircling bands near the tip of the abdomen. Average size 2 feet 4 inches (0.7 meters). Cry: a low-pitched chirp with a brief croak at the end.

Shiny coloration: Autumn leafy brown. Eyes remain the same.

**Behavior**

Spends most of their time hiding in the forest canopy, or buried in the leafy forest floor. Rarely moves, and is awkward when doing so, scooting and rocking back and forth to achieve momentum. Has trouble climbing trees. If attacked, uses Harden to withstand blows until the aggressor grows weary and leaves; rarely retaliates. Begins most confrontations by wriggling its tail, rearing back as best it can, rocking back and forth, or vibrating fiercely. In domestic situations, calm and tranquil. Practically impossible to upset.

**Proper Care**

A Metapod is a low-maintenance Pokémon if ever there was one. Aside from providing water, and a little food for it to eat on the off-chance it gets hungry, you really don't have to do much of anything, except perhaps cleaning up a rare molted layer. It won't even move much; if you leave in the morning, when you return in the evening there's a very good chance it'll still be in the same room it was when you left, if not the exact same spot. This unhurried approach to life extends to its emotions, as well; as long as you aren't actively abusive, odds are that it'll be willing to go along with practically anything you want to do. If you have any children, you can place it in bed with them as a "living stuffed animal," as a Metapod is warm and smooth with no rough edges; even the pointy bits are safely blunt. Not only does this comfort the child, but the Pokémon itself seems to draw great satisfaction and happiness from it, and the two can form a very strong bond. Likewise, it can also serve as a rocking horse. Most Metapod spend very little time in this evolution, but a rare few come to enjoy it and stubbornly refuse to evolve again; this is fine and there's nothing wrong with it.

**Notes**

The shell of a Metapod, when hardened to maximum density, can be almost as strong as steel. However, if it is struck in just the right place with sufficient force, it can be popped out of its shell. If this happens, its new outermost layer is very soft and weak, and it should be kept out of battle at all costs for a day or two until it has had time to stiffen up.

In battle, a wild Metapod will go completely defensive and try to simply withstand blows. However, a Metapod that evolves into this form while with a trainer is willing to go on the offensive, using the attacks it knew as a Caterpie. This is because with a trainer, it knows the battles are not for life or death and it is willing to adopt a riskier strategy, whereas in the wild, it actually forgets the old moves so as to remove the temptation of doing anything but concentrating on guarding. It may also shrug out of a thin Shed Skin, healing itself of a burn, paralysis, or similar status ailment.

A Metapod probably won't win anyone's award for "most exciting Pokémon" or sweep a fighting tournament, but its ease of care and quietly steadfast nature make it a worthwhile companion.

**#012**

**Names**

Butterfree (proper name)

Butterfree (distinctive name)

Butterfly Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Bug/Flying

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found in Viridian Forest and along Routes 2, 24, and 25 in Kanto; specimens in other locations migrate to Kanto after their first mating in their final evolution. Some vagrants may be found in trees in Johto while gaining their bearings.

**Habitat**

Usually confined to forests and adjoining grasslands.

**Egg Groups**

Bug

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 6. Not as widespread as Caterpie or Metapod, and fairly low numbers of them. Not endangered, however, nor in dangerous areas.

Acquisition Difficulty: 6. A scrappy battler, and one that is very hard to catch in a Poké Ball unless it has been severely weakened.

Ownership Difficulty: 3. Friendly and helpful. Requires a little cleaning after and some room to stretch its wings.

**Diet**

Prefers pollen, and if available, honey and tree sap; any dry food "pollinator mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

Bipedal butterfly, primary color indigo. Red compound eyes, large in proportion to face. Blue nose, hands, and feet. Small fangs visible. Large white wings with visible veins, black edges and eye-spot like markings; wings tinted blue near the body. Long antennae. Average size 3 feet 7 inches (1.1 meters). Cry: A quick, high-pitched screech.

Shiny coloration: Eyes neon green. Nose, hands, feet, wing tints pinkish-red. Primary coloration remains the same.

**Behavior**

Spends most of its time flying between various flowering plants, collecting pollen with the hairs on its legs. Will raid beehives for honey and trees for sap if either is already open, but will not make the initial attack. If attacked, defends itself with Silver Wind, Bug Buzz or even Psybeam, and uses Poison Powder to weaken difficult foes. Begins most confrontations by raising one foot, or flapping its wings and fluttering up and down or side-to-side. In domestic situations, cheerful and eager to please. Likes to be of help if possible.

**Proper Care**

A Butterfree requires a little more careful handling than either a Caterpie or a Metapod. Like all Pokémon that can fly, it needs a lot of room to exercise, so you need to either have high ceilings, or let it outside on a regular basis. The scales on its wings tend to fall off at the drop of a hat; get ready to vacuum about once a week, if not more. While the proper dry food mix will meet its nutritional needs, you'll want to keep some flowers around the house for it to visit to help meet its psychological needs. Otherwise, it tends to get sad and listless. Fortunately, plastic ones work just as well as the real thing; and if you have any Grass-type Pokémon that have flowers, the two of them will get along fine. A Butterfree can be very cooperative, happily taking things to and bringing things from high places that you can't reach without a ladder. A few spoonfuls of honey are a perfect reward for any assistance that goes above-and-beyond.

**Notes**

A Butterfree's senses are acute enough that it can locate pollinating plants up to six miles away, and as the scales on its wings are waterproof, it can do so even in heavy rain.

In battle, a Butterfree will batter opponents with strong winds and sharp scales from its wings; some of its scales are mildly toxic, as well (you don't have to worry, however; outside of battle, these won't be released in great enough numbers to cause health problems). It can also transmit a beam of psychic power from its antennae, and use its Compound Eyes to lessen the chances of its attacks missing their mark.

All the members of this evolutionary line are easy to obtain and take care of, and can provide you with years of friendship and love, and all the proof you'd ever need that Bug-types can be just as affectionate as any other kind.

For Further Reading: _Madame Butterfree_ by Professor Mary Posa


	21. Field Guide: 013, 014, 015

**#013**

**Names**

Weedle (proper name)

Beedle (distinctive name)

Hairy Bug Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Bug/Poison

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found in Viridian Forest and along Routes 2, 24, and 25 in Kanto, in Ilex Forest, the National Park, and Routes 30 and 31 in Johto, in Eterna Forest and along Route 204 in Sinnoh, Vien Forest in Almia, and in the Pattern Bush in the Sevii Islands.

**Habitat**

Usually confined to forests and adjoining grasslands, some live in quiet, protected reserves with few to no predators.

**Egg Groups**

Bug

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 2. Lives in just a few areas, but these are easy to hike through, and they crawl practically everywhere in those areas.

Acquisition Difficulty: 1. Goes into a Poké Ball very easily, and is weak enough that any other Pokémon can exhaust what little resistance it has.

Ownership Difficulty: 1. No problem at all to care for; needs practically no special preparations at all.

**Diet**

Prefers fallen leaves, tree bark, and other such forest detritus; any dry food "small arthropod vegetarian mix" will do as a substitute, as will bowls of salad. Enjoys bits of fruit as a treat.

**Physical Description**

Crawling insect, primarily dull yellow. Segmented body, with a head segment and seven thoracic/abdominal segments. Stinger on the end of final segment and similar barb atop head. Fourteen visible feet, covered in pink hemispheres. Black eyes, small in proportion to face, above a large pink nose. Average size 1 foot (0.3 meters). Cry: A medium-pitched screech.

Shiny coloration: Iridescent, primary coloration either lime green or bright gold depending on how it is seen; nose and feet either pink or golden, also depending on angle.

**Behavior**

Crawls about the forest floor, trying to remain unnoticed among leaves and bushes. Sometimes lives in large colonies with other members of its evolutionary line. Mostly unmindful of humans. If attacked, defends itself with Poison Sting and Bug Bite, and reduces its opponent's agility with String Shot. Begins most confrontations by rearing up on several of its back segments and wiggling its stinger, shuffling back and forth, or bouncing up and down. In domestic situations, shy and complacent. Generally finds a favorite area and stays there.

**Proper Care**

A Weedle is no problem at all to care for. It usually likes to stay at or near floor-level, especially if there's lots of furniture or other objects it can lurk behind. It may need a little while to adjust to you after you bring it home. During this time, try not to scare it, or it may instinctively use a mild dose of poison on you; nothing bad, but there will be painful swelling associated. Once it's gotten used to the new arrangement, you won't have to worry about this. You won't really have to worry about anything except the occasional bit of string or shed skin.

**Notes**

A Weedle is a comparatively big eater, often consuming its own weight in leaves every day. For this reason, their owners often make extra income in the autumn by renting their Pokémon out to those who can't or won't rake their yards.

In battle, a Weedle will weaken opponents with the one-two punch of binding them with string and debilitating them with injections of toxins from its barb and stinger. It may also bite and steal a berry if they have one. The Shield Dust it's coated in is a natural protection against the by-products of many attacks.

Because of its coyness, its quiet attitude, and how simple it is to capture, a Weedle is a good Pokémon for a beginning trainer to make as an early acquisition.

**#014**

**Names**

Kakuna (proper name)

Cocoon (distinctive name)

Cocoon Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Bug/Poison

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found in Viridian Forest and along Routes 2, 24, and 25 in Kanto, in Ilex Forest, the National Park, and Routes 30 and 31 in Johto, in Eterna Forest and along Route 204 in Sinnoh, and in the Pattern Bush in the Sevii Islands. The population of Weedle that live in Almia's Vien Forest migrate away to one of the other areas shortly before their evolution.

**Habitat**

Usually confined to forests and adjoining grasslands, some live in quiet, protected reserves with few to no predators.

**Egg Groups**

Bug

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 3. A little harder to find than Weedle, but still not rare by any stretch of the imagination.

Acquisition Difficulty: 4. Bulky enough to take a moderate licking and keep on ticking, and to have a better chance at escaping from a Poké Ball.

Ownership Difficulty: 1. Not much more difficult to take care of than a piece of furniture.

**Diet**

Prefers fallen leaves, tree bark, and other such forest detritus; any dry food "small arthropod vegetarian mix" will do as a substitute, as will bowls of salad. Enjoys bits of fruit as a treat. Eats very little; some quickly evolving specimens may not eat at all in this stage.

**Physical Description**

Vertical chrysalis, bright yellow. Skin a set of hard plates fitting tightly together and overlapping. Plates can open slightly around the mouth; two on the front can also unfold and extend forward like arms. Eyes black, large, and triangular. Average size 2 feet (0.6 meters). Cry: a loud screech that drops sharply in pitch at the end.

Shiny coloration: Chrysalis plates leafy green.

**Behavior**

Spends most of their time clinging to tree trunks, dangling from branches by silky strings, wedged in the nooks of trees, or hiding in the undergrowth. Rarely moves, and is awkward when doing so, using its tip as a pogo stick to bounce along; can balance almost perfectly on this tip. Sometimes lives in large colonies with other members of its evolutionary line. If attacked, uses Harden to withstand blows until the aggressor grows weary and leaves; rarely retaliates, although more mobile members of its colony may attack an aggressor in its stead. Begins most confrontations by extending its "arms," shaking its head up and down, vibrating its whole body, wriggling back and forth, or shaking its tip and bouncing quickly. In domestic situations, still and composed. Very hard to bother.

**Proper Care**

A Kakuna can pretty much take care of itself. Give it water, some food (if it's one of the specimens that likes to eat), and clean up the occasional layer that might molt off, and you're basically done. Its psychological needs are pretty much the only things you really need to worry about. In nature, it likes to cling to or dangle from trees, so you need to replicate this in your home. Book cases, entertainment centers, and other similar structures will help fill this need. If you have a small child, you can actually hang a Kakuna from a mobile, making both human and Pokémon happy; otherwise, a ceiling fan can serve the same purpose, though it's not recommended you ever turn the fan beyond the low speed setting. It will almost certainly bond closely with whoever it spends time with during these clinging or dangling sessions, whether they be human, Pokémon, or ordinary animal.

**Notes**

A Kakuna's tip is the stinger it possessed as a Weedle covered in plating. It is capable of sliding the plating aside to use the stinger in an emergency. It may also Shed Skin, healing itself of a negative status ailment by detaching the affected area.

A wild Kakuna will play a purely defensive game if attacked, but one that evolved from a Weedle in the care of a trainer is willing to attack back with the moves it knew in its previous form. In the wild, where a battle will typically put its life at risk, it forgets its old attacks to remove any enticement to use them. With a human, however, it knows that it will be all right even if it loses a battle, so it's prepared to try a riskier, more offensive strategy.

A Kakuna, despite its lack of energy and excitement, can be a close member of your family and a good choice for a friend.

**#015**

**Names**

Beedrill (proper name)

Spear (distinctive name)

Poison Bee Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Bug/Poison

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found in Viridian Forest and along Routes 2, 24, and 25 in Kanto; specimens in other locations migrate to Kanto after their first mating in their final evolution. Some vagrants may be found in trees in Johto while gaining their bearings.

**Habitat**

Usually confined to forests and adjoining grasslands.

**Egg Groups**

Bug

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 5. Rarer than Weedle or Kakuna. Does not live in dangerous areas, and often settle in large colonies.

Acquisition Difficulty: 7. Possesses quite the resistance to being pulled into a Poké Ball, and is very aggressive and spiteful in battle.

Ownership Difficulty: 3. Very loyal after it thinks of its trainer as a member of its colony. Needs space to fly. Enormous poison barbs can be tricky.

**Diet**

Prefers pollen, nectar, and meat; a blend of dry food "pollinator mix" and "small carnivore mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

Bipedal bee, primary color yellow. Red eyes, large in proportion to face. Arms and legs both thin and black. Arms end in huge poisonous barbs. Abdomen encircled by two black stripes and ends in large stinger. Large transparent wings with visible veins. Antennae that bend at a forward right angle. Average size 3 feet 3 inches (1 meter). Cry: Loud buzzing.

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration green, eyes blue (exact shading of both change in differing light sources).

**Behavior**

Spends much of its time collecting pollen and nectar from flowering plants within its territory or (more commonly) its colony's territory. If the territory is breached by an intruder, a warning is given; if the intruder does not retreat, it will attack with Fury Attack, Twineedle, Pin Missile and Poison Jab. If it is victorious, it will drag the intruder back to home for consumption. Begins most confrontations by gesturing with its barbs, rapidly flapping its wings, drifting from side to side, or hovering up and down. In domestic situations, fiercely loyal and protective. Defends other members of the household, to the death if need be.

**Proper Care**

A Beedrill requires a delicate touch at first. If caught in the wild fully evolved, it will take some time to adjust to the idea of the household as its new "colony," and will be very prickly and irritable. On the other hand, it has been a member of the household for sometime prior to evolution, it will be incredibly overprotective, threatening those visitors it does not know very well without any provocation. Thankfully, whichever phase it goes through will be over in roughly a week; two at max. Afterwards, it will be protective but not overly so, and will have learned what does and does not constitute a serious threat. This helps make them a popular Pokémon in high-crime areas, as most criminals will retreat rather than risk being on the business end of a Beedrill's barbs and stinger. Should it successfully defend the household, it will instinctively want to feed on the defeated intruder, and though it can be talked out of this, it will be disappointed; make it up to it by preparing a large, juicy peppered steak. Also, it will need room to fly, either indoors or out.

**Notes**

Although capable of flight, Beedrill are not Flying-type. Their diets do not include many Bug or Grass-types and so they are not protected from them, and their spindly limbs do not have any extra defense against Fighting-type moves. They fly low enough that Ground-type moves do not hurt too bad, their wings are thin and flexible enough to shrug off Ice and Rock-moves, and their barbs act as a kind of lightning-rod that cancels out what would normally be a large vulnerability to Electric-typed moves.

As Beedrill tend to usually live in vast colonies, attacking one can be dangerous. In battle, one will fight with blindingly fast jabs, stab with both barbs at once, or impale its opponent on its stinger, flying at high speeds in hit-and-run fashion, and if the battle goes poorly, think of the Swarm that's depending on it to increase its determination and attack power. Now imagine being on the end of several dozen of those attacks at once. For this reason, do careful scouting at first and learn where the colony's territory ends. Only there should you attack, and even then make sure just to go after a lone specimen on a scouting mission so that it cannot summon help.

All three of these Pokémon can form a strong bond with you and your family, and will protect you for years to come once that loving connection has been established.

For Further Reading: _Sting Like A Beedrill_ by Professor Muhammad Api


	22. Field Guide: 016, 017, 018

**#016**

**Names**

Pidgey (proper name)

Poppo (distinctive name)

Tiny Bird Pokémon (descriptive name)

**Typing**

Normal/Flying

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found in Viridian Forest and along Routes 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 21, 24, and 25 in Kanto, in Ilex Forest, the National Park, and along Routes 29, 30, 31, 32, 34, 35, 36, and 37 in Johto, along Route 229 in Sinnoh, in White Forest in Isshu-Unova, around the Aqua Resort area of Oblivia, and in Berry Forest and Five Isle Meadow in the Sevii Islands.

**Habitat**

Usually confined to forests and adjoining grasslands; live in trees if it has the opportunity, hunt in tall grass.

**Egg Groups**

Flying

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 1. Widespread throughout Kanto and Johto, and have partially colonized several other regions as well.

Acquisition Difficulty: 2. Can put up something resembling a fight, but goes into a Poké Ball so easily you'd think they were built just to catch them.

Ownership Difficulty: 1. Changing out its newspaper is probably the hardest thing you'll have to do while raising one.

**Diet**

Prefers insects and arachnids, both Pokémon and normal; any dry food "insectivore mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

Perching bird, breast and belly feathers cream-colored, as are primaries (upper wing feathers), eyebrows, and underside of wings. Noticeable tuft of feathers on breast. Back and tail feathers brown, as are secondaries (lower wing feathers) and crest. Three tail feathers. Eye rings black. Eyes white with brownish-black irises. Beak and legs either pinkish-gray or orange depending on individual. Each foot possesses two talons in front, one in back (some individuals have a recessive gene that results in three talons in front). Somewhat plump. Average size 1 foot (0.3 meters). Cry: Quick, medium-pitched "a-hoo."

Shiny coloration: Back, tail, crest, and secondaries dull gold.

**Behavior**

Typically lives alone, but some may live in loosely-associated flocks. Equally at home in the trees or on the ground. Docile and somewhat acclimated to humans; will not flee unless attacked. Prefers escape over battle. If safe escape seems unlikely, will use Sand-Attack to blind their attacker or Whirlwind to try and blow it away. When hunting, will use Gust in the tall grass to flush out prey and also damage it, and Quick Attack to try and finish it off. Typically begins confrontations by flapping its wings, quickly flying up and down, strutting from side-to-side, or flashing its wings and puffing its breast. In domestic situations, enjoys fluttering about and finding perches throughout the residence; these can include people's heads.

**Proper Care**

A Pidgey is a fairly easy Pokémon to raise, being rather self-sufficient as long as you provide it with food, water, and the occasional hygienic treatment. It likes to have lots of objects low to the ground, giving it a sense of security similar to tall grass, and a perch or two at a greater altitude (roughly head height or higher). In case you're not a battling trainer, you can help it relieve its natural predatory instincts by buying a stuffed an animal and letting it attack the stuffing out of it from time to time. When you're at home with it, it can be very warm, fluttering up in your lap or giving you an affectionate nip on the ear or nose. Fortunately, Pidgey don't molt very often, so you won't have many feathers to clean up.

**Notes**

A Pidgey has an incredible innate sense of direction, superior to any non-Pokémon bird. Once it has mentally designated a location as home, it can find the way back there from anywhere in the world without error; and it can also be trained to memorize up to half-dozen other locations in the world, although it may take a bit longer to make its way to one of those.

Pidgey are generally harmless, by Pokémon standards, but you must remember that like all Pokémon (for that matter, like all wild animals in general), it can be dangerous. Some trainers are tempted to try and capture one by themselves should they have no Pokémon with them, diving on top of it to weaken it. This can be done, and generally has no negative repercussions, but some trainers have received some nasty injuries and lasting scars from a Pidgey's beak and talons, so attack at your own risk. Strangely, if you try to confuse one, there's a good chance you've made it harder to hit, it's befuddled random movements making it seem as if it has Tangled Feet.

A Pidgey is not the most exotic of Pokémon, but it makes an excellent one for a new trainer's first companion or first capture.

**#017**

**Names**

Pidgeotto (proper name)

Pigeon (distinctive name)

Bird Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Normal/Flying

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found in Viridian Forest and along Routes 5, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 21, 24, and 25 in Kanto, along Routes 29, 30, 31, 32, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, and 43 in Johto, around the Aqua Resort area of Oblivia, and in Berry Forest and Five Isle Meadow in the Sevii Islands. The populations from Sinnoh and Isshu-Unova, as well as certain locations in Kanto and Johto, move to one of the above sites after their first mating in this evolution.

**Habitat**

Usually confined to forests and adjoining grasslands; live in trees, hunt in forest and grasslands.

**Egg Groups**

Flying

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 3. Somewhat rarer than Pidgey, but still fairly common and widespread across Kanto and Johto.

Acquisition Difficulty: 5. Not a horrible fighter, and has a decent resistance to being captured in a Poké Ball.

Ownership Difficulty: 3. Give it a lot of room for it to swoop and dive around in, and you shouldn't have many problems.

**Diet**

Prefers small animals and Pokémon of all kinds; a blend of dry food "small carnivore mix" and "small piscivore mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

Bird of prey, breast and belly feathers cream-colored, as are feathers around beak, on underside of wings, and secondaries (lower wing feathers). Back and throat feathers are brown, as are primaries (upper wing feathers). Tail consists of five feathers in fan-shaped pattern, two cream, three brick-red, in alternating sequence. Large reddish crest anchored above beak arching back over head. Black, "bent spectacle" markings around eyes. Beak and legs either pinkish-gray or orange depending on individual. Each foot possesses two talons in front, one in back. Average size 3 feet 7 inches (1.1 meters). Cry: Long "oowoohwooh-ha."

Shiny coloration: Beak, feet, crest and three tail feathers become shiny gold; back, throat, and feathers on top of wings are grayish-green.

**Behavior**

Typically lives alone, but some may live in loosely-associated flocks, often with Pidgey. Nests high in the branches of trees. Possesses large territory that can extend over 60 miles, and will strenuously defend it against other individuals of the same species, using Twister and FeatherDance. Slowly patrols the sky in large circles, then swoops at high speed to attack prey on the ground or in bodies of water, carrying it back to the nest for feeding. Typically begins confrontations by arching its head back, spreading its wings, bobbing its head forward, or hovering briefly in place. In domestic situations, spends much of its time leisurely soaring around the residence, making the rounds.

**Proper Care**

A Pidgeotto's number one need is space, and lots of it. Without question, it will need at-will access to the outdoors, even if you have a multiple-story house with high ceilings, so I recommend installing a large flap in the ceiling or a wall that it can fly through (I also advise making it rather heavy, so no lighter birds or other flying life can get inside against your desire). Two problems may arise when it's outside. First, its territorial instincts will likely kick in and it will try to chase away or fight any other Pidgeotto in the neighborhood, whether wild or not. Second, it may try to prey on any smaller Pokémon or animals it finds, which can definitely cause trouble if they're someone's pets or companions. You'll have to talk to it before you let it out, making sure you drive the point into its head not to attack anything while it's out. You can't do anything about its territorial compulsions, but you can help soothe its predatory nature; buy some meat and take it outside, then let the Pidgeotto fly out, grab it, and return home with it to eat.

**Notes**

A Pidgeotto has amazing eyesight, able to spot small animals or even water-bound fish from several miles up.

In battle, a Pidgeotto will rely primarily on its razor-sharp claws and mighty wings, mostly preferring to forgo attacking with its beak.

Although less tame and more of a handful, a Pidgeotto should still be easy enough for a fairly novice trainer to handle, and will definitely help protect you and your home.

**#018**

**Names**

Pidgeot (proper name)

Pigeot (distinctive name)

Bird Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Normal/Flying

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found in Viridian Forest and along Routes 5, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 21, 24, and 25 in Kanto, along Routes 29, 30, 31, 32, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, and 43 in Johto, and around the Aqua Resort area of Oblivia. Individuals in other locations emigrate away shortly after their first mating in their final evolution.

**Habitat**

Usually confined to forests and adjoining grasslands; live in trees, primarily hunts in grasslands.

**Egg Groups**

Flying

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 7. Fairly widespread, but much rarer than their previous evolutions; many local trainers go their whole lives without seeing one in the wild.

Acquisition Difficulty: 7. Can take quite a few hits before even thinking of going down, and has a tremendous resistance to being captured by a Poké Ball.

Ownership Difficulty: 5. Not too disobedient, but its large size and high speed mean that it'll probably break some things around the house every now and then.

**Diet**

Prefers aquatic animals and Pokémon; any dry "medium piscivore mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

Bird of prey, breast, belly, and throat feathers cream-colored, as are feathers around beak, on underside of wings, and secondaries (lower wing feathers). Back feathers are brown, as are primaries (upper wing feathers). Tail consists of four brick-red feathers in fan-shaped pattern. Large crest anchored above beak arching back over head and along the body, sometimes for its entire length; crest has red exterior feathers and cream-colored interior feathers. Black, "bent spectacle" markings around eyes. Beak and legs pinkish-gray, though beak may be orange depending on individual. Each foot possesses three talons in front and one in back. Average size 4 feet 11 inches (1.5 meters). Cry: A long, loud "oowoohwoohwooh-HAH."

Shiny coloration: Back feathers, primaries become greenish-brown; breast, belly, throat, tail, and talons become bright gold, as do the beak and feathers around it.

**Behavior**

Typically lives alone, but some may act as the leader of loosely-associated flocks of Pidgey and Pidgeotto. Nests high in the branches of trees. Very laid-back when it comes to territory. Makes rapid dives, accelerating swiftly to snatch prey, preferably from or just below the surface of bodies of water. If prey cause unexpected trouble, will attack them further with Wing Attack or Air Slash, before returning to the nest to consume the prey and Roost to heal any wounds sustained. Typically begins confrontations by crouching down, spreading its wings wide, arching its head back and softly fluttering its wings, making a quick bluffing "dive and turn," or briefly puffing itself up to appear larger. In domestic situations, cool and calm, trying to find the highest places in the residence to perch upon.

**Proper Care**

A Pidgeot is actually a little easier to care for than a Pidgeotto, as it has become much less concerned about protecting territory and driving others away. It will still need at-will access to the outside, and thus to be warned about attacking animals and Pokémon when outside, if you caught it as a Pidgeot and it has not received this warning before. However, because of its preference for aquatic food, the ramifications if it disobeys you are unlikely to be as severe. The main thing that will give you problems is its tremendous speed. Although it will generally exercise this speed to its utmost only outside, when it's indoors it may accelerate to higher speeds than intended. Combine that with its large wingspan and you're almost guaranteed to have something around your residence broken every now and then. I'm afraid there's not much you can do about this, aside from trying to find secure places to store anything fragile and valuable, and disciplining the Pidgeot firmly but calmly whenever this happens.

**Notes**

Pidgeot are one of the fastest of all Pokémon species in the air, some individuals capable of reaching speeds of up to Mach 2 when conditions are perfect. They can be fairly easily taught to give you rides to wherever you need to go; with their powerful wings, this puts no strain on them at all. The hardest part of the training is actually conditioning them to go slow enough not to scare their passenger (there's no worry about the passenger falling, but some people are so terrified of heights, especially at high speeds, it's hard to convince them of this).

In battle, a Pidgeot relies primarily on its wings, either beating their opponent with them directly, or using them to create localized vortices or even small, blade-shaped shockwaves. They possess such a Keen Eye that many of them resist all attempts to make their attacks inaccurate.

This entire evolutionary line is fairly easy to raise, and despite their nature as swift predators, they can be very loving and loyal. One trainer of my acquaintance was forced to release his Pidgeot to become the leader-protector of the local Pidgey and Pidgeotto flock. He swore to return to visit it, and although to my knowledge this has never happened, I'm told that Pidgeot is often seen throwing longing glances toward the horizon.

For Further Reading: _Killing Dives, Caring Hearts_ by Professor Henrietta Finch


	23. Field Guide: 019, 020

**#019**

**Names**

Rattata (proper name)

Koratta (distinctive name)

Mouse Pokémon (descriptor name)

Rat Pokémon (descriptor name used in early notes, can be found in older works)

**Typing**

Normal

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found along routes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 16, 17, 18, 21, and 22 in Kanto, on Mt. Mortar, in Union Cave, around Tohjo Falls, and along routes 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 38, 39, and 46 in Johto, along Routes 225 and 226 in Sinnoh, around Fall City in Fiore, and around Pueltown in Almia.

**Habitat**

Native to grasslands, but easily capable of adapting to caves, mountainous terrain, and urban areas.

**Egg Groups**

Ground

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 1. Very prevalent throughout Kanto and Johto; it's said that seeing one means forty are nearby. Harder to avoid than to find.

Acquisition Difficulty: 2. Not the most powerful Pokémon in the world, with almost no resistance at all to going into a Poké Ball if weakened even slightly.

Ownership Difficulty: 1. Not much harder to care for than a normal rodent. Adapts easily to interior life.

**Diet**

Prefers nuts, fruits, and grasses; any dry food "small herbivore mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

Quadruped rodent, cream-colored fur along underbelly, on paws, inside ears, and along bottom half of face, purple fur elsewhere. Large, visible upper incisors. Eyes white with blood-red irises. Three claws on each paw. Tail often kept arched back over body and head, curled at the end. Large whisker jutting from under each eye. Whiskers generally shorter, fur lighter in females. Average size 1 foot (0.3 meters). Cry: Quick, high-pitched "rowl."

Shiny coloration: Purple fur becomes pale gold, bordering on gray. Irises become purplish-blue.

**Behavior**

Typically live alone or in a mated pair; large numbers may colonize an area but are mostly unaffiliated with one another. Spends almost every waking hour searching for food due to very fast metabolism. Incisors grow constantly, must gnaw on objects to keep them worn down to a safe length. Reproduces in high numbers. Rather accustomed to humans, will not flee unless attacked, but is very cautious and will constantly monitor them. Prefers escape over battle. If attacked, will defend itself with Tackle, Quick Attack, and even Hyper Fang. Typically begins confrontations by displaying its incisors, raising one paw, standing on its back legs, dancing back and forth, jumping back and forth, or bobbing up and down. In domestic situations, nosy and inquisitive.

**Proper Care**

A Rattata doesn't really need much in the way of specialized care. Be sure to remember to provide it with lots of objects it can gnaw through in order to keep its' teeth worn down. Plastic bottles and aluminum cans serve this purpose well, but if you don't produce much of that variety of trash, your local Pokémon Center will be happy to provide you with alternatives. If you don't meet this need, it will chew on anything and everything around the house that provides enough resistance to its teeth; be sure to train this urge out of them as soon as you can (unless you want holes everywhere, in which case, don't let me stop you). Also, be aware that no matter how well you feed them, they'll have the urge to explore every nook and cranny of your residence looking for further food. This is partially psychological and doesn't mean you're starving it. Nevertheless, you will need to feed it several times a day.

**Notes**

In general, Rattata are very wary, and even after living safely with humans for years, they can be observed twitching nervously in their sleep, ears always scouting for even the slightest worrisome sound. For this reason, they are very light sleepers; if one sleeps in your bed with you, expect it to wake up, leave, and return several times throughout your sleep cycle. You'll get used to it.

In battle, a Rattata will rely primarily on its speed to deliver painful bites with its large incisors. Of course, this presumes it's able to resist its strong urge to Run Away.

Although it will be initially skittish, a Rattata can be a close companion and are a wonderful choice for a trainer to be given or capture early in their career.

**#020**

**Names**

Raticate (proper name)

Ratta (distinctive name)

Mouse Pokémon (descriptor name)

Rat Pokémon (descriptor name used in early notes, can be found in older works)

**Typing**

Normal

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found along routes 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, 11, 16, 17, 18, 21, 26, and 27 in Kanto, on Mt. Mortar, in Union Cave, around Tohjo Falls, and along routes 38, 39, 42, and 43 in Johto, along Routes 225 and 226 in Sinnoh, around Fall City in Fiore, and around Pueltown in Almia. Rattata from other routes in Kanto and Johto migrate to the new routes around the time of their evolution, and fiercely protect their territory from non-evolved Rattata. There is also an isolated, non-breeding population near Striaton City in Isshu-Unova, likely escapees from an abusive trainer.

**Habitat**

Native to grasslands, but easily capable of adapting to caves, mountainous terrain, and urban areas.

**Egg Groups**

Ground

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 4. Still a quite widespread Pokémon, but not as much as its pre-evolution, and also extant in fewer numbers.

Acquisition Difficulty: 5. A stronger battler than Rattata, but by no means a juggernaut. Has a decent resistance against Poké Balls.

Ownership Difficulty: 3. Harder to handle due to its increased size, but still nothing that most first-time trainers should have a problem with.

**Diet**

Prefers nuts, fruits, and grasses, as well as small animals, especially fish; any dry food "medium omnivore mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

Biped rodent, cream-colored fur in front, dusky brown fur elsewhere. Large, visible incisors. Eyes somewhat small, white with black irises. Three claws on each paw. Bottom paws webbed. Long, bald tail. Three large whiskers jutting from under each eye. Whiskers generally shorter, fur lighter in females. Average size 2 feet 4 inches (0.7 meters). Cry: Loud, somewhat high-pitched "rowwl."

Shiny coloration: Front fur becomes light green, other fur becomes reddish-brown.

**Behavior**

Typically live alone or in a mated pair. Metabolism has slowed significantly since evolution; now only needs one or two meals a day. Incisors grow constantly, must gnaw on objects to keep them worn down to a safe length. More aggressive and carnivorous than before; webbed feet allow them to navigate bodies of water, typically rivers, for freshwater fish and similar prey. More willing to stand their ground if attacked, defending themselves with Crunch, Super Fang, or in a clutch, Double Edge. Typically begins confrontations by gnashing its incisors and wiggling its whiskers, hopping back and forth, dropping to all fours, or snarling. In domestic situations, swaggering and somewhat protective.

**Proper Care**

Caring for a Raticate isn't too much harder than caring for a Rattata. You'll still have to provide rigid objects for it to gnaw on, but more of them. You'll have to provide more food per meal, but this is balanced out by fewer numbers of meals. As Raticate are much less jumpy, visitors who have gotten used to your Pokémon fleeing at the sight of them will now have to become accustomed to a much bolder greeting. Those who possess a phobia of rodents, in particular, may have a hard time adjusting to a very large, bipedal one strutting fearlessly up to them and investigating.

**Notes**

A Raticate's whiskers are integral to its sense of balance and coordination; if they are lost, the Pokémon will become much more cautious in its movements, taking things quite a bit slower.

In battle, a Raticate will continue to rely on its powerful incisors as its primary weapon of choice. It has Guts, and will redouble its offense if suffering from a nasty burn or envenomation.

Once adjusted and loyal to you, both members of this evolution family are fairly easy to handle and care for. Just be sure to keep your fingers clear of its teeth.

For Further Reading: _The Great Mouse Pokémon_ by Professor Basil Willard


	24. Field Guide: 021, 022

**#021**

**Names**

Spearow (proper name)

Onisuzume (distinctive name)

Tiny Bird Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Normal/Flying

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found along routes 3, 4, 9, 10, 11, 16, 17, 18, 22, and 23 in Kanto, along routes 33, 42, 46, and 47 in Johto, along routes 225 and 226 in Sinnoh, along Union Road and in the Peril Cliffs of Almia, and on Treasure Beach, Mt. Ember, Cape Brink, around Seven Island, in Ruin Valley, and along Kindle Road in the Sevii Islands. Some vagrants may be found in trees throughout Johto. Captive, but wild, specimens available in the Johto Safari Zone.

**Habitat**

Usually found along cliffsides, canyons, and grassy fields. Tend to roost on the ground but some may roost in trees.

**Egg Groups**

Flying

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 2. Very widespread, especially in the Kanto and Johto regions, and not at all hard to find.

Acquisition Difficulty: 3. Quite aggressive for a Pokémon its size, but its strength does not match its ferocity.

Ownership Difficulty: 2. Can be somewhat difficult to tame initially, but settles down and becomes domesticated fairly quickly.

**Diet**

Prefers small animals and Pokémon, such as insects, also animal and Pokémon eggs if unguarded; any dry food "small carnivore mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

Bird of prey, breast and belly down feathers cream-colored, two horizontal black stripes visible. Primaries (upper wing feathers) rose red, secondaries (lower wing feathers) light pink. Head plumage brown and rather spiky. Tail consists of three feathers in a fan-shaped pattern. Back of head and body black in coloration. Legs and hooked beak pink. Each foot possesses two talons, one in back. Small eyes in proportion to face, black irises. Average size 1 foot (0.3 meters). Cry: Quick "Kaw-AH!"

Shiny coloration: Primaries deep yellow, secondaries pale yellow. Head plumage and tail feathers brownish-green, can appear golden in certain light. Legs and beak bright gold.

**Behavior**

Typically lives in large flocks, but hunts alone. If disturbed, the entire flock may swarm after the intruder, attacking with Peck, Pursuit and Aerial Ace until the trespasser flees. Can nest either on the ground or in low branches of trees. Does not excel at high-altitude or long-distance flights; much better at short, high-speed dives to flush out and attack prey. Typically begins confrontations by opening its beak and raising one foot, shaking its head and one foot and flapping one wing, flapping briefly into the air, or bouncing from side-to-side. In domestic situations, flies all over the place.

**Proper Care**

The hardest time to care for a Spearow is immediately after you obtain it, whether this is through capture or simply obtaining one at a Pokémon Center. Its natural aggressive attitude will be at the forefront during this period; it will fairly randomly buzz you, and you may want to keep a magazine, ruler, or similar object close at hand, to discipline if necessary without causing real injury (I also recommend closing your door when you sleep). After a few weeks, it will have fully adjusted to the new situation and will recognize the residence as "your territory" and will no longer attempt to claim it from you. Once this has happened, it will become much friendlier and random attacks will stop, and may take to perching on your head or shoulders.

**Notes**

A Spearow's cry can be heard for over half-a-mile. If many Spearow cry in rapid succession, they are warning one another of some great danger.

In battle, a Spearow will tend to rely on its hooked beak to inflict damage, and to impale prey.

A Spearow will never be the cuddliest, most affectionate of Pokémon, and will take some chastising, but once familiarized to you and your ways, can make good companions.

**#022**

**Names**

Fearow (proper name)

Onidrill (distinctive name)

Beak Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Normal/Flying

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found along routes 9, 10, 16, 17, 18, 22, and 23 in Kanto, along routes 42, 47, and 48 in Johto, on Stark Mountain and along routes 225, 226, and 227 in Sinnoh, along Route 15 in Isshu-Unova, in the Haruba Desert of Almia, and on Treasure Beach, Mt. Ember, Cape Brink, around Seven Island, in Ruin Valley and Sevault Canyon, and along Kindle Road in the Sevii Islands. The changed areas are due to migration of certain populations when evolving or when about to give birth. Captive, but wild, specimens available in the Johto Safari Zone.

**Habitat**

Usually found along cliffsides, canyons, and grassy fields. If at all possible, try to nest in a high area, such as a tall tree or a stone spire.

**Egg Groups**

Flying

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 5. Overlaps most of their range with Spearow, but much less common; typically only one or two per Spearow flock.

Acquisition Difficulty: 6. Can be very dangerous with its sharp bill, but not overly so. Has a strong resistance to being captured by a Poké Ball.

Ownership Difficulty: 5. Meaner and rowdier than its pre-evolution. Large wingspan and high-speed dives can cause problems.

**Diet**

Prefers small animals and Pokémon, such as insects and rodents, also animal and Pokémon eggs if unguarded; any dry food "medium carnivore mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

Bird of prey, wide wingspan. Most of body is covered with dusky brown feathers; secondaries (lower wing feathers) and "capelet" on back cream-colored. Rather shaggy frill of feathers around base of neck, capelet also rather bushy. Large red comb along the top of the head, resembling a mohawk, possessing five "spines" (some individuals in Kanto may possess a diminutive sixth spine at the back). Long, thin pink beak; maxilla (upper jaw) much longer than mandible (lower jaw); jag where jaws join to act as a barb. Long, sinuous neck. Tail consists of four feathers in a fan-shaped pattern. Legs pink. Each foot possesses three talons in front, one in back. Eyes small in proportion to face, no visible irises. Average size 3 feet 11 inches (1.2 meters). Cry: "Krawwww-HAH!"

Shiny coloration: Main body becomes a dull greenish-yellow (can seem gray under dim lighting), comb and legs become bright orange, beak becomes pale yellow. Secondaries and "capelet" remain cream-colored.

**Behavior**

Typically lives alone, but may serve as the leader of a flock of Spearow; if one of the Spearow evolves, a fight between the two Fearow is almost certain, with the defeated being driven out to find a new home. Can spend up to an entire day gliding in the air with barely a wingbeat. Very efficient predators, typically swooping down and grabbing their prey on the wing, sometimes impaling it with their bill. Uses their serpentine necks and sharp beaks to jab into ground for insects or water for small aquatic life to supplement their diet. If attacked, will either attempt instant flight or defend itself with Drill Peck. Typically begins confrontations by spreading its wings wide, flapping its wings, quickly flapping around in a small area, or opening its beak wide. In domestic situations, patrolling and protective.

**Proper Care**

A Fearow is quite a bit more difficult to care for than a Spearow. Even if you've had it for a while, after it evolves its aggressiveness will be back and stronger than ever, and you'll have to re-establish your position as head of the household. Once that has been handled, it will continue to be very protective. Inside your residence, it will patrol, keeping an eye out for anyone new it can challenge; outside, it may attack those who enter what it perceives as its territory. Although a Fearow will need at-will access to the outdoors, you have to make it clear that this is contingent upon good behavior. You shouldn't install the access panel (which should be heavy enough to keep other, smaller wildlife out) until it's demonstrated inside first that it can handle unfamiliar persons and Pokémon in a non-violent manner, and if it slips up while outside, you should restrict access for a while. On the other hand, if it does a very good job at restraining these tendencies, give it some treats, such as eggs, since it's such a struggle to overcome its instincts.

**Notes**

Fearow have long memories and can hold on to grudges for a very long time, even remembering old foes they only met once back in their time as a Spearow. You may want to keep this in mind, and if you fail at capturing one, steer clear of the immediate area for quite a while.

The deadliest weapon a Fearow has is, by far, its long beak. It can skewer prey on it with one fast dive, and the jag halfway down keeps the victim from wriggling off. As you can imagine, it can also put this to dreadful use in a battle. It has a very Keen Eye that aids the accuracy of its strikes.

Most members of this family will never win a congeniality contest (although, like always, there are exceptions, and some can be very friendly and loving), but once the hierarchy has been established, they will be quite loyal, eager to defend you and your mutual home.

For Further Reading: _Pecking Order_ by Professor Kain Gungnir


	25. Field Guide: 023, 024

**#023**

**Names**

Ekans (proper name)

Arbo (distinctive name)

Snake Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Poison

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found along routes 3, 4, 8, 9, 10, 11, and 23 in Kanto, along routes 32, 33, 37, and 42 in Johto, along route 212 in Sinnoh, and in the Olive Jungle of Fiore. Some vagrants have been observed falling out of trees throughout Johto, possibly due to pranksters. Captive, but wild, specimens available in the Johto Safari Zone.

**Habitat**

Usually found in grassy fields, plains, and savannas.

**Egg Groups**

Ground, Dragon

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 5. Only available in a few locations, but these are reasonably easy to get to, and fairly common in most of those areas.

Acquisition Difficulty: 3. Goes into a Poké Ball very easily, but has a nasty venomous bite that could give your Pokémon trouble.

Ownership Difficulty: 4. Not much of a problem except for its venom. This, of course, can be quite a problem indeed, but you should be able to handle things with some care.

**Diet**

Prefers eggs, both animal and Pokémon, and also small creatures; any dry food "small carnivore mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

Snake, predominantly purple. Underbelly gold, as is thick band shortly below head. Varying number of yellow rattles on the end of tail, usually four or five. Several pairs of thin black bands along the length of the body. Yellow eyes with slit pupils. Ridge along head, stopping just short of nostrils. Even with mouth open, fangs typically not visible; large, non-forked tongue. Average size 6 feet 7 inches (2 meters). Cry: Low-pitched "Hhhhrrrrrss!"

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration avocado green.

**Behavior**

Typically lives alone. At nighttime, tries to find a tree to rest in, draping its body over branches; if none can be found, seeks a hole, pile of rocks, or similar cover to rest in. Flicks out tongue to sense possible prey and potential dangers. Slithers quietly to attack prey from behind, immobilizing them with venom. Also raids nests for eggs. Both prey and eggs are swallowed whole. When resting, curls on top of itself in a layered spiral pattern, providing a good vantage point and allowing it to easily open its mouth and shake its rattle in a defensive threat display. If that fails, fends off aggressors with Bite or Acid. Typically begins confrontations by opening its mouth wide, snapping its head forward and shaking its rattle, or quickly stretching itself out to its full length. In domestic situations, calm and unhurried.

**Proper Care**

Obviously, the first thing you should keep in mind when it comes to an Ekans is its venom. A bite isn't lethal to healthy adult humans, but they can make you feel very dizzy and light-headed, with extremities going numb; you may even faint. Should you be bitten, your first priority should be to prevent follow-up bites; once you've gotten yourself and the Ekans separated, you should immediately call for medical aid, and while waiting for it, follow the first aid tips outlined in the beginning of this book. You're at the greatest danger for being bitten while it first adjusts to living with you; it can be snappy and easily aggravated during this time, so you'll want to stay a fair distance away from it for a while. Prod it gently with a broom or similar if you need it to move. You'll know it has gotten relaxed and comfortable when it approaches you and curls around your feet. This will likely happen within just a couple of days. After this time, you can interact with it safely, even hugging and petting it, though if it begins to rattle, it's growing irritated and you should immediately stop whatever you're doing. An Ekans is not territorial, and will not harass visitors or other Pokémon if it sees you interacting with them in a friendly manner. You'll want to buy something like a coat-rack that it can climb up and drape itself over, if you don't have one already, and also some stuffed animals it can exercise its natural biting instinct on. When cleaning its teeth, be extra sure to wear thick gloves.

**Notes**

The venom glands of a newly-hatched Ekans haven't activated yet, so you're at no risk from a bite from a newborn. They activate roughly the first time it gets rid of a Shed Skin, which can also cure it of many afflictions.

The most powerful weapon an Ekans has is its mouth, capable of biting and holding on with a tight grip while it injects venom. It swallows prey whole, but not by unhinging its jaw, as popular belief holds; rather, the jawbones are very mobile and loosely attached, allowing for great stretching (this is true for all snakes, and is known as cranial kinesis).

An Ekans is not a Pokémon that a beginner should start with, or attempt to capture and raise right away. But once you've had some experience, one can make a fine addition to your household. Just don't tell it to "bite me."

_Individuals of this species must be registered with your local government office._

**#024**

**Names**

Arbok (proper name)

Arbok (distinctive name)

Cobra Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Poison

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found in Cerulean Cave and along routes 3, 4, 22, 23, 26, 27, and 28 in Kanto, on Mt. Silver and along route 42 in Johto, and in the Sekra Mountain Range in Fiore. Populations migrate or are driven away with evolution or upon birth, explaining the range differences compared to Ekans. Captive, but wild, specimens available in the Sinnoh Great Marsh (shipped from the Johto Safari Zone upon evolution).

**Habitat**

Usually found in grassy fields, plains, and savannas. Can subsist in swamps, marshes, and bogs.

**Egg Groups**

Ground, Dragon

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 7. Appears in only a few locations, and rare in those. Thankfully, they are not too hard to reach, and a 12-foot snake is not the hardest thing to find.

Acquisition Difficulty: 7. Can provide a fight with potentially deadly consequences, but is still not the most dangerous by Pokémon standards. Very resistant to Poké Balls.

Ownership Difficulty: 7. Need a lot of space and careful handling. Inexperienced or foolish trainers risk death unless they owned it as an Ekans.

**Diet**

Prefers almost any animal or Pokémon smaller than it; any dry food "large carnivore mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

Snake, predominantly violet. Large hood just under its head, kept flared. Large markings on hood mimicking a face; markings black save for "eyes," which are reddish-orange and yellow surrounded by black; some Kanto specimens have two black, wave-like patterns on the back of the hood. Thin black bands along the length of the body, averaging fifteen in number. White eyes with black irises, rather human like. Often displays four large fangs and forked tongue. Average size 11 feet 6 inches (3.5 meters). Cry: Low-pitched, loud "Hhhhrrrrrss!"

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration iridescent green-dull gold, reddish-orange portion of eye markings have become purplish-blue.

**Behavior**

Typically lives alone. When hunting, uses its face markings to terrify prey into staying still while it kills them, with Wrap or Acid Bomb; may also produce menacing sounds by expelling air. Should the victim attempt to flee, will pursue them until one or the other collapses from fatigue. Prey are swallowed whole. Typically begins confrontations by baring its fangs, flicking its tongue and swishing its tail, darting its head around, or lunging forward quickly. In domestic situations, investigative and protective.

**Proper Care**

Do not try to raise an Arbok from scratch without lots of experience with other Pokémon. If you do, you may die. A bite from one can inject enough venom to kill a healthy adult human, and their constrictions have enough power to crush an oil drum. If it decides to turn on you, you alone won't have much of a chance against it. You have to know how to properly discipline and coach a Pokémon without making it too angry, and that's knowledge best gained with less lethal species first. If you've raised it from an Ekans, the danger is severely reduced, but even an accidental bite could prove fatal, as could an overly affectionate embrace, unless you know how to dissuade it. An Arbok will be much more curious about visitors than an Ekans, and you'll want to warn any guests about your companion beforehand, as they tend to startle the unexpected. It will also need some space to slither around in; a small apartment probably won't be enough. If you let it go outside, I highly recommend you accompany it for its first sojourns until you're positive it knows not to attack anything. To reward it for good behavior, give it humanely killed animal carcasses to constrict and eat, or at the very least, empty water coolers or similar that it can squeeze harmlessly.

**Notes**

The face markings on an Arbok's hood can vary; certain patterns tend to correspond to certain regions, but this is not a perfect correlation. It uses these faces to Intimidate opponents, making them fight back rather weakly.

An Arbok's entire body is dangerous, from its sharp fangs to its powerful body to its brawny tail. If you find yourself in extreme danger, try to go for its nostrils or eyes to discourage it from attacking you; I should add, however, that this should be the absolute last resort, is extremely dangerous, and you should try your hardest never to find yourself in this situation in the first place.

This evolution family can be dangerous, and are definitely not for beginning trainers, but they can be as loving as any other species. A good friend of mine (who, unfortunately, has made a…rather regrettable career choice that I'm constantly trying to talk her out of) once had an Ekans, and the two of them were very affectionate toward each other, and this held true when it evolved. The two were forced to part ways, which completely devastated her for a time, and I know she still possesses strong hopes of being able to reunite with it soon.

_Individuals of this species must be registered with your local government office._

For Further Reading: _Yes, It Had To Be Snakes!_ by Professor Samuel L. Jörmungandr


	26. Field Guide: 172, 025, 026

**#172**

**Names**

Pichu (proper name)

Pichu (distinctive name)

Tiny Mouse Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Electric

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found in Viridian Forest and along Route 2 in Kanto, around Fall City and in Panula Cave and the Sekra Mountain Range in Fiore, around Vientown in Almia, and on Faldera Island in Oblivia. These are traditional "breeding locations" that many adults leave and return to many times over their lives. Captive, but wild, specimens are available at the Backlot Manor in Sinnoh.

**Habitat**

Usually lives in forests, but has adapted well to urban areas. Capable of surviving, if not thriving, in mountain ranges and caves, and on rocky volcanic islands.

**Egg Groups**

Too immature to breed.

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 8. Found in only a few locations, and their parents devote much energy to keeping them hidden until they evolve.

Acquisition Difficulty: 2. Quite weak and inexperienced in combat, and very vulnerable to a Poké Ball's pull.

Ownership Difficulty: 2. Typically very friendly and easygoing, and their electricity has not reached dangerous levels.

**Diet**

Prefer nuts, seeds, berries and fruit; any dry food "small vegetarian mix" will do as a substitute. Apples are often a favored treat.

**Physical Description**

Bipedal rodent, primarily yellow in color. Head rather outsized in proportion to body. Large, kite-shaped ears; edges covered in black pattern. Somewhat semaphore flag-shaped tail, "collar" around neck also black. Large brown eyes, pink cheeks. Average size 1 foot (0.3 meters). Cry: Very high-pitched "Rrrrrrrrrreahp!"

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration bright yellow, appearing dull gold in dim lighting. Cheeks a much darker shade of red.

**Behavior**

Lives with parents, who are very protective; normally kept in well-camouflaged hiding place when individuals not of this evolutionary line are around; parents themselves typically associate with colony. Among colony, very playful with other Pichu, often forming small groups, and if parental attentiveness slips, will also eagerly play with other species, whom they enjoy mischievously shocking with their minor bursts of electricity (the victims usually seem to take this in stride as part of the price of their company). Unable to store much electricity, are practically helpless if attacked away from their parents or members of their colony. Release overflowing electricity through their cheeks, which double as electrical glands. Electrical releases may also occur in the case of strong emotions, especially if multiple individuals are play-wrestling. In domestic situations, sociable and lighthearted.

**Proper Care**

A Pichu is quite easy to take care of. It doesn't require much in the way of specialized care, just the same amount of food, water, shelter, and so forth that a normal rodent of its size would get. What you really need to pay attention to is its electrical nature. At this point in its life, its little zaps are not dangerous to humans, each one not much worse than the shock you can get from touching a car on a cold day. However, it can cause minor problems around your residence, such as shorting out a light bulb and other similar, small inconveniences. Most of the time these are accidents, the result of the Pichu not being fully aware of the consequences of its own power. A firm admonishment and small punishment (such as a gentle thwack to the head, or denial of a favorite treat) should be enough to keep such incidents to a minimum. Of course, Pichu are notoriously mischievous, and on rare occasions they may cause such problems intentionally. In this case, you'll have to take a firmer stand. Fortunately, Pichu tend to be generally good-natured at heart. It will be very affectionate and loving, enjoy playing games and participating in activities with you (there is at least one documented case of a Pichu playing a ukulele), and will almost certainly snuggle with you in bed. Before long, the zaps won't even wake you up.

**Notes**

Pichu evolve into Pikachu not by leveling up, but through the happiness method discussed earlier in the book. If you treat it as well as you should, it will be very happy, and has the potential to evolve quite early; much earlier than it would in the wild, in fact. This won't have any negative repercussions for it, but it can be disconcerting for you. Several trainers, who have thought of their Pichu as their "baby," experienced severe pangs of sadness at seeing it "grow up" so quickly. In case this would apply to you, I suggest that at some point (sooner, rather than later) you sit it down and have a talk with it. Tell it that whether it evolves or not, you'll always love it, but that you enjoy caring for it in this state, and that you would greatly appreciate it if it delayed its evolution for some time. Like all Pokémon, they understand human speech very well, and it will understand what you're saying. It should be willing to agree to this extension, and I know of one Pichu who has, at the time of writing, delayed its evolution into Pikachu for over a decade out of love for its trainer.

In battle, a Pichu is really nothing to write home about, being outmatched by all but the weakest species. I would strongly recommend not using it at all in competitive battling, but only in friendly matches with appropriately scaled Pokémon.

As they're so hard to find in the wild, it's much easier to obtain one from a Pokémon Center or similar domestic situations (this is why a Pichu has a much higher entry number than its evolutions; Pichu are so well-hidden that it was a long time before they were officially discovered to exist). Should you do so, you'll have a lovable, playful, and most definitely energetic companion.

**#025**

**Names**

Pikachu (proper name)

Pikachu (distinctive name)

Mouse Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Electric

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found in Viridian Forest, around the Lavender Town Power Plant, and along Routes 1 and 2 in Kanto, around Fall City and in Panula Cave and the Sekra Mountain Range in Fiore, in Boyleland Volcano and Crysta Cave and around Vientown and the Chroma Highlands in Almia, and on Faldera Island in Oblivia. Captive, but wild, specimens may be found in the Hoenn Safari Zone and the Backlot Manor in Sinnoh.

**Habitat**

Usually lives in forests, but has adapted well to urban areas. Capable of surviving, if not thriving, in mountain ranges and caves, and on rocky volcanic islands.

**Egg Groups**

Ground, Fairy

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 6. Inhabit just a few areas, and are rare in those areas. However, they live mostly in easy to reach, temperate areas.

Acquisition Difficulty: 3. Much stronger than Pichu, but most wild specimens are fairly easy to pull into a Poké Ball.

Ownership Difficulty: 4. Tend to be quite a bit stubborn, and their electricity has now reached dangerous levels, though they rarely use their full power on humans.

**Diet**

Prefer nuts, seeds, berries and fruit; any dry food "small vegetarian mix" will do as a substitute. Apples are often a favored treat. Also can draw electricity into their bodies to refresh themselves temporarily, much like humans and caffeine.

**Physical Description**

Rodent, bipedal by preference but can easily move on four limbs as well, primarily yellow in color. Rather long ears, far ends colored black (males may have slightly less black than females). Two horizontal brown stripes on back. Tail shaped rather like lightning bolt, females often have a small, rounded dent at the end of tail. Brown eyes, large pink cheeks. Some specimens' underbellies darker yellow. Average size 1 foot 4 inches (0.4 meters). Cry: Rather scratchy "Rhieeeeeeeep!"

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration brownish-yellow.

**Behavior**

In forests, normally lives in large colonies, composed of numerous small family groups joined together for common defense. In rougher terrain, or in human-settled areas, lives in much smaller groups or even alone. Has developed much greater control over electricity, and can store quite a bit more in the electrical glands in its cheeks before forcefully releasing it. This electricity is used for defense, as well as to shake fruit and similar foodstuffs loose from trees; this also serves the purpose of cooking the food at the same time. If attacked, defends self with Thundershock, Quick Attack, Slam, or even Thunderbolt. Usually very sociable and friendly toward humans that have not shown ill will. Typically begins confrontations by raising one foot, waving an arm, wiggling ears and blinking, bouncing up and down while making its body flash with power, dropping to all fours then rising back up quickly, or wiggling tail and ears. In domestic situations, inquisitive and affectionate.

**Proper Care**

Although very similar to a Pichu, a Pikachu requires much more careful handling. They are more willing to use their power, and are able to store much more of it. This can result in ruined appliances, burnt-out fuses, and scorch marks on your walls. Whenever this happens, chastise it right away, and give it the cold shoulder during the time it takes for you to clean up the mess, but once you're done, make sure to let it know that you still love it, and that this won't change. This balancing act of affection and reproach is important. Too little punishment, and it will blast your residence apart without a care. Too much, and it will feel unfairly abused and turn its power on you. Pikachu don't normally pack lethal voltage, but better safe than sorry, and you want to avoid all the electric shocks you can. As Pikachu can be notoriously obstinate, you may find yourself rebuking it quite a bit, especially early on. Also be wary when stroking and petting it; make sure it knows you're about to, so that it can take itself out of "charged mode" and not shock you accidentally. After a shock, call for an ambulance if any of the following symptoms appear: numbness, blurred vision or speech, burns, uncontrollable spasms, paralysis, difficulty breathing, or unconsciousness. If your Pikachu needs to discharge spare electricity, provide it with something nonflammable and non-expensive it can touch its tail to (otherwise it will do this to your floor, leaving burns or even holes). If it is unable to build up enough electricity by itself and needs more, it will likely draw it out of your power outlets. Normally this will only increase your utility bill, but if it gets carried away it might trip your circuit breakers. Like Pichu, Pikachu are very intelligent and many enjoy human activities; there are documented reports of individuals using surfboards or floating with the aid of powerful balloons.

**Notes**

Wild Pikachu can occasionally be pests when they move into human-occupied areas, gnawing into power wires, transformers, and other electrical equipment to get at the electricity inside. Normally local representatives of the utility department drive out any nuisance Pikachu like this, but they're willing to allow amateur trainers to do it instead. This can be an excellent way for a raw trainer to gain some first-hand experience battling, and also get a small compensation from the utility department. Just be careful; if you cause more damage than the Pikachu did, you'll find _yourself_ paying _them_.

In a fight, a Pikachu tends to rely mostly on its inner electricity, with quick body slams being relegated to a secondary role. Its increased power means that, unlike Pichu, Pikachu are well-suited to professional, competitive battling. Many of them seem to have a knack for come-from-behind victories.

A Pikachu may not be the best starter Pokémon (though I'm sure several trainers would disagree), but with experience, and lots of insulated clothing, it can be easily handled and loved.

**#026**

**Names**

Raichu (proper name)

Raichu (distinctive name)

Mouse Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Electric

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found around the Lavender Town Power Plant, in the Cerulean Cave and Viridian Forest, and along Route 2 in Kanto, in the Sekra Mountain Range in Fiore, in Boyleland Volcano and around Ice Lake in Almia, and along Sophian Road and on Mt. Sorbet in Oblivia.

**Habitat**

Naturally live in forests, have become very well-adapted to caves, mountains, and low-temperature areas.

**Egg Groups**

Ground, Fairy

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 7. Rare, found in low numbers in just a few areas, some of which are dangerous.

Acquisition Difficulty: 7. A very powerful foe, equally proficient at evading hits and a Poké Ball's grasp.

Ownership Difficulty: 6. Quite competitive compared to the rest of its evolutionary line, often eager for a battle. Frequently packs lethal voltage.

**Diet**

Prefer nuts, seeds, berries and fruit; any dry food "medium vegetarian mix" will do as a substitute. Apples are often a favored treat. Also can draw electricity into their bodies to refresh themselves temporarily, much like humans and caffeine.

**Physical Description**

Bipedal rodent, primarily brownish-yellow in color. White underbelly. Concave ears, dark brown on outside, yellow interior; outside corner of each ear takes on curl. Long whiplike tail, ends in yellow lightning-bolt shape; bolt usually blunter in female. Two horizontal brown stripes on back. Ends of hands and feet dark brown. Soles of feet pale tan, yellow spot at each heel. Small brown eyes, large yellow cheeks. Average size 2 feet 7 inches (0.8 meters). Cry: Screechy "Rhieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeapp!"

Shiny coloration: Main coloration dull orange, can appear very dull yellow if specimen is low on electricity. Cheeks, end of tail, ear interiors pale gray.

**Behavior**

Typically lives alone, may rarely join colony of Pichu and Pikachu, acting as leader. More aggressive than previous evolutions, often willing to take the offensive to defend the colony. Less belligerent if alone, will typically hide or flee. Aggressiveness rises if too much surplus electricity is stored. Uses their tail as a ground to discharge excess, leaving large burned spots in grass or undergrowth; these can often be used as a guide to find any local individuals. If more power is needed, the tail is raised high overhead to increase the rate of absorption. In battle, can use powerful moves such as Discharge and Thunder. Typically begins confrontations by jumping into the air, opening its mouth while blinking quickly and resting its hands on its belly, snapping its jaws forward quickly once or twice, making its body flash with power, or rising high on its feet. In domestic situations, bold and competitive.

**Proper Care**

A Raichu is not to be raised lightly. Their bodies are capable of storing up to 100,000 volts; as a shock of over 11,000 is usually fatal to humans, you can see the potential for accidental tragedy. There are many Pokémon that you can safely playfully surprise, but a Raichu is not one of them, as it could instinctively release its power and knock you into unconsciousness or worse. If you want to pet or stroke it, you must be absolutely positive it knows that this is coming, so it can take itself out of "charged mode." When giving it a bath or brushing its teeth, wear rubber boots and gloves and use a brush made of non-conductive material (this holds true for Pichu and Pikachu as well, but is doubly important for Raichu). If you have small children or regular animal pets in the house, try to keep them sequestered from one another and train the Raichu to stay out of charged mode as an added precaution. They have hungry appetites for electricity, but you'll have to drill some moderation into it, or it might draw so much power that it overloads the town's energy grid. This can have unpleasant legal and financial consequences for you, to say nothing of what your neighbors will think.

**Notes**

Pikachu evolve into Raichu not by leveling up, but by exposure to the energies of a Thunderstone. After evolution, many of them leave their native forests or caves and end up in areas with very low temperatures. This is due to the fact that cold increases conductivity, allowing them to increase their power and the amount of voltage they can safely handle much more quickly than if they stayed in hot or temperate zones.

In battle, Raichu tend to rely on their massive electric potential, but are not above mixing it up with surprisingly strong physical attacks, as on average they're roughly twice as tall as their former evolution, and in "charged mode," their Static (which they share with Pichu and Pikachu) has a chance to induce temporarily paralysis in other Pokémon if they make physical contact. However, the evolution that grants them power and strength may cost them when it comes to agility and speed if they're already lacking in that department. Most Raichu enjoy a good scrap and will eagerly enjoy a battle, even if it's just a friendly match against one of your good friends' or neighbors' Pokémon.

Despite the obvious danger and potential pitfalls, any member of this evolutionary family can be a wonderful friend and companion, whether at home or on a trainer's journey to be the very best, like no one ever was.

_Individuals of this species must be registered with your local government office._

For Further Reading: _Thundershock And Awe_ by Professor Nicole A Galvani


	27. Field Guide: 027, 028

**#027**

**Names**

Sandshrew (proper name)

Sand (distinctive name)

Mouse Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Ground

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found at Mt. Moon and along routes 3, 4, 8, 9, 10, 11, 22, and 23 in Kanto, in Union Cave in Johto, along routes 111 and 113 in Hoenn, in the ruined caves of the Chroma Highlands in Almia, and along the Mitonga Road in Oblivia. Captive, but wild, specimens may be found in the Johto Safari Zone.

**Habitat**

Can mostly be found in rocky, arid areas such as deserts, mountains and caves; will seek out sandy areas in those locations. Some may be found in grassland, again finding the sandiest spots to inhabit.

**Egg Groups**

Ground

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 5. Inhabits a fairly wide range, and is common among its many homes, though it spends a lot of time in the sand.

Acquisition Difficulty: 2. Simply fought, especially if you have a Pokémon who easily handles Ground-types, and goes into a Poké Ball like, well, like sand into a vacuum.

Ownership Difficulty: 3. Usually timid and inoffensive, but requires some specialized care to make it truly happy.

**Diet**

Prefers small insects and other invertebrates; any dry "small insectivore mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

Pangolin, primarily yellow body (ranging among individuals from very bright to very dull) patterned like bricks. Underbelly and lower-jaw beige. Large, bluish-black eyes with white irises. Sharp claws on all feet. Tail roughly half the length of the rest of the body. Rather feline ears. Average size 2 feet (0.6 meters). Cry: High-pitched "Weee-AH!"

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration bright green, appearing gray in dim lighting conditions.

**Behavior**

Spends most of its time under the sand, either simply buried in it or living in specially constructed burrows. Digs its way through the sand easily with its claws. Likes to ambush bugs by bursting out of the sand. Moderately social, willing to share a large burrow with another of its species. Normally bipedal, but can run on all fours. If attacked, defends itself with Sand-Attack, Defense Curl, Poison Sting, and Fury Swipes. Typically begins confrontations by sitting down, raising one paw, scratching its forehead and wiggling its tail, rocking back and forth, hunching over, dropping to all fours, or jumping in the air quickly. In domestic situations, normally begin shy before growing bolder.

**Proper Care**

A Sandshrew is fairly easy to raise; even if you live in a high-rise, you don't need to worry about it falling off, as it curls into a ball in mid-air to absorb and lessen the impact of a drop. The main problem you'll run into is that it needs something to dig and burrow through to make it feel totally safe and secure. If you own a house, you could always let it use your yard, of course, but there's a few problems with that. First of all, it's optimized for tunneling through sand, not dirt. Second, this tends to leave large gaping holes in your lawn, which your neighborhood may not appreciate (of course, if you live in the desert, at the beach, or another area with sandy soil that fills in easily, neither of these are problems). But if you don't own your residence, this isn't even an option unless your landlord is very accommodating. Another choice is to simply dump a large pile of sand in one room, but this tends to end with the Sandshrew scattering it all across your residence. The best choice is to buy a special habitat (your local Pokémon Center can tell you just what kind you need) filled with sand and tubes it can crawl through, to simulate burrowing. With this habitat giving your Sandshrew a sanctuary, it will be very happy, and will be quite affectionate and loving. When you first acquire it, it will spend lots of time in its sandy haven, but as it gets to know you, it will spend more and more time with you.

**Notes**

Most Sandshrew dislike large quantities of water intensely, as they are acclimated to a desert lifestyle. In their natural habitats, they need very little water to stay hydrated. They acquire it during the cold desert nights, when it condenses on their skin; they then lick it off. In your home, a simple bowl full of water, much like you would put out for a cat or dog, is enough to quench its thirst for about a month.

In battle, a Sandshrew will seek to protect itself first, curling into a ball to guard its underbelly, and throwing sand (some of which always clings to it) into its opponent's eyes. Its claws may sometimes be poisoned, and it is capable of slashing with them over and over again in a flurry of blows.

As long as you don't mind having to vacuum sand up about once a week, a Sandshrew can be a wonderful companion once you break through its initial shyness.

**#028**

**Names**

Sandslash (proper name)

Sandpan (distinctive name)

Mouse Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Ground

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found at Mt. Moon, in Cerulean Cave, and along routes 23, 26, and 27 in Kanto, along Route 228 in Sinnoh, in the ruined castle of the Desert Resort in Isshu-Unova, in the ruined temple north of Haruba Desert in Almia, and in the ruins along Mitonga Road in Oblivia. Some populations of Sandshrew migrate from their former homes to several of the above locations upon evolution; their children return to their parents' original homes. The specimens in the Johto Safari Zone are released upon evolution.

**Habitat**

Can mostly be found in rocky, arid areas such as deserts, mountains and caves; will seek out sandy areas in those locations. Some may be found in grassland, again finding the sandiest spots to inhabit. Much more at home in ruined man-made areas than they were as Sandshrew.

**Egg Groups**

Ground

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 7. Quite a bit rarer than their previous evolution, and continues to spend a lot of time in the sand.

Acquisition Difficulty: 6. Very hard to pull into a Poké Ball, and dangerous with its claws, but still very vulnerable to many common Water-type attacks.

Ownership Difficulty: 5. Large claws and quills can prove problematic to your household décor, and still needs specialized care.

**Diet**

Prefers small insects and other invertebrates; any dry "small insectivore mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

Pangolin, largely yellow body (ranging among individuals from very bright to very dull). "Mane" of large, pointed quills, most dark brown but one on the forehead the same shade of yellow as the rest of the body. Underbelly and lower-jaw beige. Large, bluish-black eyes with white irises. Enormous, sharp claws on all feet. Tail roughly half the length of the rest of the body. Ears resembling nearby quills. Average size 3 feet 3 inches (1 meter). Cry: Low-pitched "Ree-ah!"

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration sandy brown, appearing forest green in some lighting conditions. Quills a bright, vibrant red.

**Behavior**

Spends most of its time under the sand, either simply buried in it or living in specially constructed burrows. Digs its way through the sand easily with its claws. Likes to ambush bugs by bursting out of the sand, impaling them on its large claws if they try to flee. Only socializes with others of its species during mating; afterwards, both parents will care for the child, but separately, rarely actively cooperating. Normally bipedal, but can run on all fours. If attacked, defends itself with Rollout, Crush Claw, Sand Tomb, and Slash. Typically begins confrontations by leaning forward, thrusting some of its claws in front of itself, slashing its claws rapidly, or turning to one side and leaning. In domestic situations, assertive and bold.

**Proper Care**

A Sandslash requires a bit of careful handling. To start with, just like a Sandshrew, it needs sand to burrow through to stay happy. But taking care of this evolution requires more than just buying one of the special habitats. When looking at it, the first thing you'll notice will probably be the enormous claws. They're just as dangerous as they look. Unless you're actively abusive (and probably not even then), it won't use them on you. However, they can certainly do some damage to your residence, and they almost certainly will, as it searches for something to keep its claws sharpened on. A Pokémon Center can direct you to some specialized "scratching posts" perfectly suited for this, which will definitely save your dwelling a lot of wear-and-tear; in a pinch, old logs or large chunks of sandstone will work. Despite this, accidents happen, and you'll simply have to accept that every now and then something will accidentally get shredded. Likewise, the large spike-like quills on its back may infrequently perforate the occasional piece of furniture. This should be rare, as the quills only stand-up and really become pointy if the Sandslash is scared, startled, or otherwise agitated (for this same reason, it's safe to pet one, as long as you do so front-to-back; back-to-front will probably draw blood). For this reason, I recommend switching to harder pieces of furnishings, made of wood or metal. A Sandslash will also be quite outgoing and friendly, with little shyness toward you or any visitors. They like to come snuggling up to people, which can result in shallow but painful cuts and pricks; you'll have to teach it to be extra careful when around humans.

**Notes**

The large quills on a Sandslash's back fall off and re-grow with some regularity; from one year to the next, each one has been replaced. If one is snapped off prematurely, they will regenerate ahead of time. The same is true of its large claws, which can return in a day. The claws are also specially adapted to let it climb desert trees, from which it often plunges to strike back at enemies.

A favorite tactic of a Sandslash in battle is to curl up into a ball, then roll into its opponent, striking them all over with its claws and quills simultaneously. Rolling is, in general, one of its favored ploys, as this also helps protect it from both physical damage as well as heatstroke. If battled in a sandstorm, they employ a trick known as the Sand Veil, their camouflage and inclination towards sand making them very hard to hit.

Both members of this family can be affectionate and will make great companions for you, once you've overcome the initial period of coyness. Don't, however, be surprised at some mild collateral damage.

For Further Reading: _Spiker In The Sand_ by Professor Anakin Carlisle


	28. Field Guide: 029 to 034

_[Note: As the female and male evolutionary lines of the Nido families are so similar, they are discussed here together as to prevent unnecessary duplication. I would like to thank my colleague, Professor John Chronos, for the suggestion.]_

**#029 / #032**

**Names**

Nidoran (female) / Nidoran (male) (proper name)

Nidoran (female) / Nidoran (male) (distinctive name)

Poison Pin Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Poison

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found along Routes 2, 3, 9, 10, and 22 in Kanto, in the National Park and along Routes 35 and 36 in Johto, along Route 201 in Sinnoh, and in White Forest in Isshu-Unova. Captive, but wild, specimens are available in the Kanto Safari Zone.

**Habitat**

Usually inhabits savannas and plains, but may venture into lightly forested or rocky areas.

**Egg Groups**

Monster, Ground

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 4. Appears in only a few locations, but these are easy to reach, and they inhabit them in great numbers.

Acquisition Difficulty: 3. Moderately strong for their size, but go into a Poké Ball quite easily indeed.

Ownership Difficulty: 3. Typically shy and reserved, but their poison could cause some problems.

**Diet**

Prefers grasses, grains, and vegetables; any dry food "small vegetarian mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

(female) Quadruped, rodent-like, primarily sky-blue in color. Small forehead horn. Large, jagged, rabbit-like ears; sea green on the inside. Small lavender spots dot forelimbs and flank (some Johto specimens possess green spots). Two barbs on the back, arranged vertically (some Kanto specimens have them aligned horizontally). Prominent front teeth. Four stiff whiskers around the mouth. Two claws on each foot. Red eyes. Average size 1 foot 4 inches (0.4 meters). Cry: Midrange "Oowahahk."

(male) Quadruped, rodent-like, primarily purple in color. Noticeable forehead horn. Large, jagged, rabbit-like ears; sea green on the inside. Small dark purple spots dot flank and hindlimbs. Barbs on the back, arranged vertically in three rows, middle row larger than surrounding ones. Prominent front teeth. Four stiff whiskers around the mouth. Two claws on each foot. Red eyes. Average size 1 foot 8 inches (0.5 meters). Cry: Screechy "Oowahhk!"

Shiny coloration: Each resembles the other gender, can be very difficult to tell apart without noticing barbs or horn. Ear interiors will always be a dull brown with hints of green; this is a dead giveaway.

**Behavior**

Lives in small, loosely-associated colonies. Sleeps in underground burrows. Males more nervous and alert than females, ears constantly twitching in all directions to pick up sounds; long ears jutting out of grass are a common sight in their habitats. Members of each gender compete with one another for mates; many have ingrained Rivalries against all Pokémon of the same gender. Barbs and horn contain poison. First instinct upon being attacked is to flee. If forced to fight, defends itself with Double Kick and Poison Sting. Typically begins confrontations by (female) arching its headback, twitching its whiskers, or twitching its ears and bouncing up and down; (male) shaking its head and blinking quickly, making a feint lunge, or shaking back and forth in place. In domestic situations, calm and quiet.

**Proper Care**

Hopefully the poison is the first thing you thought about when you came to this section. In this beginning evolution, fortunately, it's not usually that bad; a dose will make you feel tingly and light-headed for a while. However, it should be noted that roughly 1 in 10,000 people have an allergic reaction to Nidoran toxins, and any exposure could be potentially fatal; your local Pokémon Center can run a cheap test that will tell you if you're one of them. When washing, playing, or roughhousing with your Nidoran, it may be wise to wear thick fabric or rubber over most of your body, to prevent accidental stabbing and poison release. A Nidoran is generally quite good about not mistakenly releasing poison, but accidents do happen. Likewise, most Nidoran will know without being taught not to discharge poison if a non-Pokémon pet, such as a cat or dog, investigates them. Nevertheless, it can't hurt to tell them just in case. Also, as a rodent-like Pokémon, it will need things to gnaw on to keep its teeth at a proper length.

**Notes**

All right, explanation time. When serious Pokémon research began, the three scientists (mentioned at the beginning of the Field Guide) decided that any species with significant gender dimorphism should be separated into two species. That's why we have these two varieties of Nidoran. Later, however, it was decided that this shouldn't be a hard and fast rule, and should be decided on a case-by-case basis, also taking into account things like what kind of moves each gender can learn. There will be species later in this guide with just as much physical dimorphism as Nidoran who do not count as separate species. As for the Nidoran, they were not re-classified as one species because that would have caused a cascade effect and upset the numbering system.

In battle, a Nidoran will rely primarily on the toxin it can discharge from its horn and barbs, their Poison Points capable of poisoning attackers, as well as the powerful kicks it can deliver from its strong hind legs.

Either gender of Nidoran is fairly easy to care for, as long as you take care around the horn and barbs, and will make a fine Pokémon for a novice to care for.

**#030 / #033**

**Names**

Nidorina / Nidorino (proper name)

Nidorina / Nidorino (distinctive name)

Poison Pin Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Poison

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found along Routes 9, 13, 14, 15, and 23 in Kanto, and around Lake Valor and along Routes 211 and 221 in Sinnoh; migrations occur after evolution. Captive, but wild, specimens are available in the Kanto Safari Zone.

**Habitat**

Usually inhabits savannas and plains, but may venture into lightly forested or rocky areas.

**Egg Groups**

Monster, Ground (note that Nidorina no longer breed after they have evolved)

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 6. Lives in very few areas and is somewhat uncommon in them, but habitats are easily reachable.

Acquisition Difficulty: 5. Can put up a decent fight, against both you and your Poké Balls.

Ownership Difficulty: 5. Bigger and potentially more aggressive than their first form, but still nothing too dangerous for you.

**Diet**

Prefers grasses, grains, and vegetables; any dry food "medium vegetarian mix" will do as a substitute.

**Physical Description**

(Nidorina) Quadruped, therapsid, capable of standing on hind legs briefly, primarily sky blue in color. Large, jagged, rabbit-like ears; dark blue on the inside. Small dark blue spots dot flank and hindlimbs. Four barbs on the back in a square pattern, bottom pair smaller than top pair. Sharp teeth visible from corners of mouth, even when closed. Small snout. Three claws on each foot. Red eyes. Average size 2 feet 7 inches (0.8 meters). Cry: High-pitched "Ooweehak!"

(Nidorino) Quadruped, therapsid, primarily purple in color. Large forehead horn. Large, jagged, rabbit-like ears; sea green on the inside. Small dark purple spots dot forehead, forelimbs, and flank. Four to six barbs on the back in a long vertical row (may appear underdeveloped in some Kanto specimens). Sharp teeth visible from corners of mouth, even when closed. Small snout. Three claws on each foot. Dark brown eyes. Average size 2 feet 11 inches (0.9 meters). Cry: High-pitched "Ooweehah!"

Shiny coloration: Each resembles the other gender, can be difficult to tell apart without noticing barbs or presence-or-absence of horn. Ear interiors will be dull green on a Nidorina and dull brown on a Nidorino; this is a dead giveaway.

**Behavior**

Lives in small, loosely-associated colonies along with Nidoran. Sleeps in underground burrows. Nidorina cares for the young of the group, chewing food to help tenderize it. Nidorino protects the group, and is quite aggressive in doing so. Barbs and horn contain poison. Nidorina prefers to retreat, and attack with Fury Swipes and Bite. Nidorino prefers to go on the offensive, and attack with Horn Attack. Typically begins confrontations by (Nidorina) rearing up on its hind legs, snapping its jaws and pawing at the air, displaying its teeth, or lifting one leg into the air; (Nidorino) arching its head to one side, lifting one leg into the air, waggling its ears and pawing at the air, thrusting its head suddenly forward, or snapping its jaws. In domestic situations, protective of its new family.

**Proper Care**

You need to be more careful with these than with Nidoran. Their poison is quite a bit more potent, capable of inducing temporarily paralysis or even unconsciousness, and that's without taking allergies into account. Be extra careful around them. Whenever you have visitors over, make sure to take time to introduce them, as both Nidorina and Nidorino are protective of their "colony" and may attack anyone they suspect shouldn't be there. On the other hand, it does make them very handy guards against burglars or other intruders.

**Notes**

The barbs on the back will swell or retract depending on their mood; if they're extra aggressive, the barbs will swell, while if they're relaxed, they'll shrink. Nidorino's barbs are almost always engorged, while Nidorina's are typically retracted.

In battle, either of these can be pretty nasty, whether they're attacking with sharp claws or piercing horns.

As long as you're careful with their various pointy bits, and are sure to "sign in" visitors with them, both genders will be excellent companions and protectors.

**#031 / #034**

**Names**

Nidoqueen / Nidoking (proper name)

Nidoqueen / Nidoking (distinctive name)

Drill Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Poison/Ground

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be sporadically found along Routes 9, 13, 14, 15, and 23 in Kanto, and around Lake Valor and along Routes 211 and 221 in Sinnoh.

**Habitat**

Usually inhabits savannas and plains, but may venture into lightly forested or rocky areas.

**Egg Groups**

Monster, Ground (note that Nidoqueen no longer breed after they have evolved)

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 8. Can only be found in a few areas in the wild, is quite rare even there.

Acquisition Difficulty: 8. Very tough fighters, and equally tough to get into a Poké Ball. Inexperienced trainers should not attempt a capture.

Ownership Difficulty: 7. Large, potentially quite dangerous, and normally fairly aggressive.

**Diet**

Prefers both grasses and meat; any dry food "medium omnivore mix" will do as a substitute. Meat is a very important part of its diet.

**Physical Description**

(Nidoqueen) Biped, therapsid, primarily sky blue in color, covered in scales. Lower jaw, breasts, lower frontal abdomen cream-colored. Small horn between eyes, another on forehead. Large, round, mouse-like ears; brownish-green on the inside. Long, muscular tail. Five large barbs on the back in a vertical pattern, extending onto the tail. Mouth is toothless, somewhat resembling a beak. Three claws on each limb. Dark brown eyes. Average size 4 feet 3 inches (1.3 meters). Cry: Screechy "Oowheehk!"

(Nidoking) Biped, therapsid, primarily dark purple in color, covered in scales. Cheat, frontal abdomen white. Large horn between eyes, another on forehead. Large, jagged, mouse-like ears; deep-sea green on the inside. Long, muscular tail. Five to six large, spiky barbs on the back in a vertical pattern, stopping just before the tail. Mouth is full of sharp needle teeth, and two large fangs on the lower jaw at each corner. Three claws on each forelimb, large hooves and one claw on each hindlimb. Dark brown eyes. Average size 4 feet 7 inches (1.4 meters). Cry: Slightly high-pitched "Oowheeeahh!"

Shiny coloration: Nidoking resembles Nidoqueen, can be difficult to tell apart. Nidoqueen is rather olive green in color (why she doesn't look like a Nidoking is unknown) with bright pink ear interiors.

**Behavior**

Lives in small, loosely-associated colonies along with Nidoran, Nidorina, and Nidorino; only one of each gender per colony, maximum. Acts as the leader and prime guardian. Very protective both of their young and other members of the colony. Sleeps in underground burrows. As defensive maneuver, Nidoqueen fond of blocking the entrance to a burrow with its body, shielding the other occupants. Nidoking aggressively impales attacking predators or crushes them with its tail. Horns and barbs contain poison. Nidoqueen attacks with Body Slam and Earth Power. Nidoking attacks with Thrash and Megahorn. Typically begins confrontations by (Nidoqueen) opening its arms wide, flexing its claws, leaning forward and roaring, or turning to the side; (Nidoking) extending one arm, raising and lowering its arms, flexing its muscles and roaring, or opening its arms wide. In domestic situations, tries to be large and in charge.

**Proper Care**

Nidoqueen and Nidoking are named after royalty for a reason. They have a natural instinct to dominate their family group. In the wild, where these groups consist of other members of their evolutionary line, that's fine. In your home, not so much. Even if you've had them since birth or a relatively young age, they'll try to usurp your position as head of the household. Don't be intimidated by their horns and barbs and tail. Stand up and be sure to let them know that nothing's changed, you're still in control. You have to back this up through both word and deed. Aside from that, you have to contend with the fact that their larger size and power means you can expect a few broken objects or big holes in the wall. Also, now that they're fully evolved, they have gone from vegetarians to omnivores. Meat will become a very important part of its diet. Both genders are possessed of a psychological inclination to crush prey with their tail, rather like an anaconda, breaking its bones and suffocating it. Although providing them with live non-Pokémon animals or their already-dead corpses is a good way to satisfy this urge, I can understand if you're not comfortable with it. Your local Pokémon Center can instead show you how to manufacture analogues that will serve the same purpose. The scales on a Nidoqueen or Nidoking can be as sharp as needles if they're sticking out from their skin or removed from it. Be careful picking them up if any drop. You should be safe if it gives you a hug, though. Finally, their poison has become stronger yet again. A dose of the size given from an average injection can be lethal to humans, allergy or no. Be sure to have plenty of antidotes around the house, and buy special equipment from your Pokémon Center that can help prevent poisonings in the first place.

**Notes**

The reason these two are so rare is because they evolve not through "leveling up" but by exposure to a Moon Stone, which are quite rare naturally. There are possibly more of these two species belonging to trainers than there are in the wild.

In battle, these Pokémon are very tough, capable of both dealing and receiving great amounts of damage. Nidoqueen can take a little more punishment, while Nidoking can dish out a little more.

This is a good line that can grow with a trainer. As they begin their Pokémon journey, they can train a Nidoran; as they become more experienced, they'll handle a slightly harder-to-handle species; and when they feel they've become an expert, they can use a Moon Stone to trigger the royal evolution.

_Individuals of this species must be registered with your local government office._

For Further Reading: _From Timid To Terrifying _by Professor Sy Ringe


	29. Field Guide: 173, 035, 036

**#173**

**Names**

Cleffa (proper name)

Py (distinctive name)

Star Shape Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Normal

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found at Mt. Moon, in Cerulean Cave, and along Routes 3 and 4 in Kanto, at Mt. Coronet in Sinnoh, and at the Giant Chasm in Isshu-Unova. These are traditional "breeding locations" that many adults leave and return to many times over their lives. Captive, but wild, specimens are available at the Backlot Manor in Sinnoh.

**Habitat**

Can mostly be found on mountains or in montane caves. Some may occasionally venture into surrounding areas' grassland or forest.

**Egg Groups**

Too immature to breed.

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 9. Found in very few areas, and are quite shy and avoid humans.

Acquisition Difficulty: 3. Can't stand up well in combat, and have little to moderate resistance against a Poké Ball.

Ownership Difficulty: 1. Can cause practically no trouble and can be quite affectionate.

**Diet**

Prefers nuts, seeds, and grass; any dry food "small vegetarian mix" will do as a substitute. Enjoys fresh morning dew as a special treat.

**Physical Description**

Bipedal creature, primarily pink in color. Curl of fur on its forehead. Large brown ears, triangular in shape, pointing sideways. No visible digits on hands or feet. Curled tail. Small brown eyes, dark pink cheeks. Average size 1 foot (0.3 meters). Cry: Very high-pitched "Squiiiil!"

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration very light pink, ears forest green.

**Behavior**

Lives with small-to-medium sized colony; normally kept in well-camouflaged hiding place when entire colony is not gathered together. Among colony, quite playful and sociable. Very shy around other species of Pokémon and humans; if any are seen, will try to flee for the safety of a nearby cave or large rock formations. If attacked on their own, are almost helpless, and must usually resort to attempting to sing their assailant to sleep before running away. Typically begins confrontations by wiggling its hands, opening and closing its mouth, and nodding its head, bouncing from one foot to another, or jumping up and down. In domestic situations, loving and physically demonstrative.

**Proper Care**

A Cleffa is simplicity itself to take care of. It has no real specialized needs, and can't cause much damage around your residence, either. Just provide food, shelter, and affection. On the subject of affection, it will probably be very shy when you first adopt it. Don't be surprised to find it spending a lot of time by itself in rooms at the opposite end of your house or apartment, or darting behind cover whenever you show up. This is completely normal. It will gradually come to adjust, and within a few weeks, it will have overcome its timidity. Once it has, it will be very loving, spending a lot of time in your lap or otherwise cuddled up to you. Also, if there are any meteor showers supposed to happen soon in your area, let it watch; they find them endlessly fascinating, and this will make them very happy.

**Notes**

Cleffa evolve into Clefairy via the happiness method. As such, with a properly loving and caring trainer, they can evolve quite quickly. In fact, they often evolve before the trainer is ready for them to do so, and they can become quite despondent at seeing their adorable little Cleffa "grow up" so quickly. Fortunately, without the pressures of the wild, evolution is not as much of a priority, and if you have a talk with it, a Cleffa will usually be quite agreeable toward delaying its evolution until you feel it's had a proper "childhood."

In battle, sorry to say, there's nothing really to recommend a Cleffa. Keep it out of fights except for friendly matches with other, similarly delicate Pokémon.

Cleffa are so rare and difficult to locate naturally that it was a long time before they were even confirmed to exist, which is why they have a much higher entry number than Clefairy or Clefable. As such, you'll have a much easier time getting one from a Pokémon Center or similar location. But however you obtain one, it's sure to be a very loving companion.

**#035**

**Names**

Clefairy (proper name)

Pippi (distinctive name)

Fairy Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Normal

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found at Mt. Moon, in Cerulean Cave, and along Routes 3 and 4 in Kanto, at Mt. Coronet in Sinnoh, and at the Giant Chasm in Isshu-Unova. Captive, but wild, specimens are available at the Johto Safari Zone.

**Habitat**

Can mostly be found on mountains or in montane caves. Some may occasionally venture into surrounding areas' grassland or forest.

**Egg Groups**

Fairy

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 8. Quite rare, and hard to locate on most occasions.

Acquisition Difficulty: 4. Not a pushover, but still quite easy to capture in a Poké Ball.

Ownership Difficulty: 2. Rarely cause problems, but can occasionally be unpredictable.

**Diet**

Prefers nuts, seeds, grass, and fruit; any dry food "small vegetarian mix" will do as a substitute. Enjoys fresh morning dew as a special treat.

**Physical Description**

Bipedal creature, primarily pink in color. Curl of fur on its forehead. Large brown ears, triangular in shape, pointing diagonally upwards. Small pair of wings on back, vaguely heart-shaped. Two claws and a thumb on each hand, one large nail on each foot. Curled tail. Small brown eyes, slightly darker pink cheeks. Average size 2 feet (0.6 meters). Cry: Very high-pitched "Quiiiii!"

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration very light pink, ears forest green.

**Behavior**

Lives in small-to-medium colonies. Among colony, very sociable. Among other Pokémon and humans, shy at first, but friendly among those they have come to trust. Gather in large numbers during the full moon and perform complex dances. Quite clever and inventive, can tinker with machines and construct them from seemingly random junk. Can bounce fairly high using its wings, especially after soaking up moonlight; cannot actually fly. If attacked, defends itself with DoubleSlap, Defense Curl, and Metronome. Typically begins confrontations by sitting down, standing on one foot and wiggling its ears, or bouncing up and down. In domestic situations, cheerful and energetic.

**Proper Care**

A Clefairy isn't much harder to care for than when it was a Cleffa. The main thing you'll have to be wary of is Metronome. This is a unique move that duplicates a different move at random whenever it is used (as yet we're not sure how this works, but scientists suspect quantum field theory is somehow involved). As it is so unpredictable, there's no real way to prepare your residence for every outcome should it use this move inside. Fortunately, most Clefairy aren't too mischievous, so you should be able to prevent any disaster by having a nice, long talk with it and telling it how important it is to never use Metronome inside, unless your or its life is actually in danger. Also, Clefairy are attracted to and strengthened by moonlight. Make sure you have a window that it can see the moon through, and on nights of the full moon, take it outside, or it will become depressed.

**Notes**

According to legend, if you see a group of Clefairy dancing during the full moon, you'll have good luck for the rest of your life. This is just a superstition, of course, but I would say that seeing these adorable creatures dancing is itself lucky.

In battle, a Clefairy can be either next-to-useless or incredibly effective. It all depends on the chaotic results of Metronome.

They're quite rare creatures, but if you have one of these in your life, what won't be rare is cuteness and loving playfulness.

**#036**

**Names**

Clefable (proper name)

Pixy (distinctive name)

Fairy Pokémon (descriptor name)

**Typing**

Normal

**Range**

Native to Kanto. May be found at Mt. Moon in Kanto, and at the Giant Chasm in Isshu-Unova. Individuals from other areas migrate to one of these upon evolution.

**Habitat**

Can mostly be found on mountains or in montane caves. Some may occasionally venture into surrounding areas' grassland or forest, but this is quite rare.

**Egg Groups**

Fairy

**Difficulty Ratings**

Location Difficulty: 9. One of the rarest non-Legendary Pokémon in the world.

Acquisition Difficulty: 7. A fairly decent battler, and incredible at resisting the pull of a Poké Ball.

Ownership Difficulty: 3. Quite easily manageable, even for most novice trainers.

**Diet**

Prefers nuts, seeds, grass, and fruit; any dry food "medium vegetarian mix" will do as a substitute. Enjoys fresh morning dew as a special treat.

**Physical Description**

Bipedal creature, primarily pink in color. Curl of fur on its forehead. Long ears, triangular in shape, pointed diagonally upwards, points sharp and brown colored in a triangular or chevron pattern. Large pair of wings on back, vaguely W-shaped; some individuals in Kanto may have brown wings, some in Sinnoh have dark pink wings, but most have wings the same color as body with a darker chevron pattern. Three digits on each hand, two small nails on each foot. Very curled tail, resembling spiral. Small brown eyes. Average height 4 feet 3 inches (1.3 meters). Cry: High-pitched "Quiwiiii!"

Shiny coloration: Primary coloration very light pink, ear markings forest green. Wings coral pink, may resemble main body coloration or ear marking coloration depending on how they catch the light.

**Behavior**

Lives with small-to-medium colony of Cleffa and Clefairy; it and other Clefable act as unofficial leaders. Among other Pokémon and humans, more intrepid than in previous forms. Leads complex dances during the full moon. May sometime lead colony in scavenging junk from human settlements and constructing machines from it. Can bounce fairly high using its wings; can time bounces perfectly off of aquatic bodies to give the illusion of walking on water. If attacked, defends itself with Metronome, Lucky Chant, and rarely, Meteor Mash. Typically begins confrontations by raising one foot, blinking rapidly and wriggling its hands and feet, bouncing from one foot to the other, or raising its arms. In domestic situations, cooperative and unafraid.

**Proper Care**

Even in its final evolution, a Clefable is still quite easy to take care of. As before, the randomness of Metronome is the primary troublemaker you'll have to watch out for, and also as before, a good talk on the importance of not using Metronome inside should head off or stop any problems in that department. With their larger wings and enjoyment of bouncing, it'll come in handy if your residence has a high ceiling. If not, and you can't renovate one into existence, I advise to take your Clefable outside daily, to let it bounce around. If you do let it bounce inside, with its relative size be aware of the potential for accidental property damage, but even if this does it happen, it will be rare. Let it spend the entirety of the full moon night outside, and let it come in at dawn. It can serve as an excellent sentry, as it has very sensitive ears; although exaggerated, the common phrase is that one can hear a pin drop from a half-mile away.

**Notes**

Between their tinkering with machinery and their fascination with celestial objects, as well as the fact that Clefairy evolve into Clefable by exposure to a Moon Stone, there's a school of thought that holds this evolutionary line originally comes from outer space. I don't believe it myself—genetics seem to show otherwise—and nor do many other scientists, but quite a few scientists and most laypeople do.

In battle, a Clefable is a master at drawing a fight out, either by using Cute Charm to infatuate its opponents and make them pull their punches, or by being shrouded in a Magic Guard that prevents draining attacks, such as slow-acting poison, from affecting it.

All three of these Pokémon are rare in the wild and at Pokémon Centers, and expensive to acquire through other fashions. But they're well worth it, as they're quite easy to raise, and very intelligent and affectionate. And who knows? If I'm wrong about their origins, maybe one will take you to the stars one day.

For Further Reading: _The Fairies From Outer Space?_ by Professor Tingle Cottingley


	30. Interlude I - Incoming Retcons!

_**Interlude I**_

_When Professor Kudzu walked into the office that morning, the sun was shining brightly, birds were singing, and it seemed a lovely day._

_He should have known things were going to go wrong._

_He had several e-mails marked URGENT from Professor Augustine Sycamore from Kalos. Many of them had files attached, which from their titles looked like scientific papers. The first e-mail read, "Kudzu, heard about your book project. Several of my associates and I have just finished a ton of important research and I'm hoping we got this to you in time to make it into your book. Best of luck, Sycamore."_

_As he read one paper after another, Kudzu cursed softly to himself, even though no one else was around to be offended. While his book was indeed still unpublished, just last week he had submitted the first chunk of it, from the Introduction to the entries for Cleffa, Clefairy, and Clefable to __Pokémonthly__, a popular publication meant for a general audience. They were going to serialize his guide in large sections._

_And now the first section of it was out of date before it had even made it to the printers._

_He shook his head. He'd have to call the magazine, explain the situation, and persuade them to publish his corrections in the following issue; it was too late to retract what he had sent. And there was a lot he had to add or change, no doubt about it. Almost seventy new Pokémon who had been officially recognized by science; a strange kind of transformation called Mega-Evolution; a brand new type, of all things…_

_Sighing, he picked up his phone and dialed__ Pokémonthly_,_ even as he opened up his word processor and began to write._


	31. Errata, Set One, Part One

Dear Pokémonthly Readers,

You may have read the first part of my book, _A Beginner's Guide To Pokémon_, which was published in last month's issue. Unfortunately, in the time between the issue being sent to the printers' and the time you received the issue, several major discoveries were made about Pokémon that invalidated parts of that article. My sincerest apologies. The next part of the book will be published in the next issue; as for now, here are corrections for last issue's content.

**Introduction**

The guide does not cover every species "from Abomasnow to Zubat." In fact, it covers every species from Abomasnow to Zygarde.

**Evolution**

Magneton and Nosepass, in addition to Mt. Coronet in Sinnoh, can also evolve at Chargestone Cave in Isshu-Unova and Route 13 in Kalos.

A new form of evolution has been discovered: Mega-Evolution. This is a temporary transformation in which a Pokémon can gain extra power. However, they must have a powerful bond with their trainer, and both human and Pokémon must be carrying a certain type of rare stone. Only certain Pokémon are capable of Mega-Evolution, and this will be noted in their profiles.

**Moves**

Technical Machines which can be used infinitely have spread beyond Isshu-Unova and are now available worldwide.

**Types**

An eighteenth type, Fairy, has been discovered. In addition, the relationship between several other types seems to have changed. In case you're wondering how that could happen, we wonder that ourselves, but we have a theory: morphic resonance.

According to morphic resonance theory, a change in body or behavior that begins in one member of a species can spread to other members, even across vast distances. The belief is that Fairy-type originated by chance in one individual, and then spread through the "morphogenetic field" to the others of its species, as well as other species that meet the Fairy requirements. The same holds true, for example, when it comes to explaining why Ghost-types can now fight at full power against Steel-types; one Ghost individual learned how to do it, and the idea spread to the others.

For further information on morphic resonance, please see _The Hundredth Mankey_ by Professor Pterry Vita-Aestus.


	32. Errata, Set One, Part Two

**Fairy**

There's a lot we don't know about the new Fairy type of Pokémon yet. What we can say is that they perform well against Dragon, Dark, and Fighting types; that it performs poorly against Fire, Poison, and Steel; that it resists Dark, Fighting and Bug; that it is weak to Poison and Steel; and that Dragon-typed moves have basically no effect. We're not sure about the reasons for any of this yet, more research is needed. My colleague Professor Augustine Sycamore says he has found evidence that the Fairy type used to exist several thousand years ago, but that for unknown reasons it disappeared until reemerging recently.

**Legendary Pokémon**

In time since I originally wrote this section, several Legendary Pokémon from the Isshu-Unova and Kalos region have been confirmed as captured, though I'm unsure if they remained captured or if they've been released.

**Diet**

Poké Puffs, a food native to Kalos, are another treat that both Pokémon and humans can enjoy. Simple ones are easy enough that you can make them at home, while trained pastry chefs can make incredibly delicious creations. Kalos has four seasonal festivals every year, which are worth attending for the special Poké Puffs alone, a different kind per season. Giving your Pokémon a few Puffs every now and then is a surefire way to gain their affection. Some Trainers in Kalos even like to have "Puff Parties," little get-togethers where they chat and hang out while their Pokémon eat Puffs and do other activities with each other, like picking berries, headbutting yarn balls back and forth, and even solving puzzles.


	33. Errata, Set One, Part Three

**Field Guide**

**Bulbasaur**

Bulbasaur may also rarely be found somewhere around Lumiose City in Kalos.

**Ivysaur**

Ivysaur may occasionally be found at the Safari Zone in Kiloude City in Kalos.

**Venusaur**

If a Venusaur is given a shard of the type of Mega Stone known as "Venusaurite," and its trainer is wearing a Mega Stone as well, it can temporarily transform into a state known as Mega Venusaur. In this state, its average size increases to 7 feet, 10 inches (2.4 meters). The flower on its back grows taller, becoming almost a small tree, with leaves and vines growing around it. Two smaller flowers appear as well, one on the forehead and one on the rear. Three dark patches appear just above the snout. It gains a layer of Thick Fat that helps insulate it from severe heat or cold. A Mega Venusaur is both stronger and especially more durable than a normal one.

**Charmander**

Charmander may also rarely be found somewhere around Lumiose City in Kalos.

**Charmeleon**

Charmeleon may occasionally be found at the Safari Zone in Kiloude City in Kalos.

**Charizard**

If a Charizard is given a shard of certain types of Mega Stone, and its trainer is wearing a Mega Stone as well, it can temporarily transform. This transformation can be triggered by either of two similar stones, known as "Charizardite X" and "Charizardite Y." The transformation will be different depending on the stone, turning into either Mega Charizard X or Mega Charizard Y, respectively. As Mega Charizard X, its skin turns black and blue, spikes grow from its shoulders, its wings separate into feather-like sections, and its flames turn blue as well. It gains very Tough Claws and trades its Flying typing for a Dragon typing. As Mega Charizard Y, its wings become larger and ragged-looking, it grows small wing-like structures on its arms, spines along its tail, and a third crest from the middle of its head while the other two shrink. It radiates so much heat that being near it is like being in the middle of a Drought. Both forms are more powerful than one in its normal state, with Mega Charizard X able to deal and receive more Physical damage, and Mega Charizard Y doing the same with special damage.

**Squirtle**

Squirtle may also rarely be found somewhere around Lumiose City in Kalos.

**Wartortle**

Wartortle may occasionally be found at the Safari Zone in Kiloude City in Kalos.

**Blastoise**

If a Blastoise is given a shard of the type of Mega Stone known as "Blastoiseite," and its trainer is wearing a Mega Stone as well, it can temporarily transform into a state known as Mega Blastoise. In this state, its shoulder cannons migrate onto its arms and acquire mini shells of their own. Its main shell now develops a huge "Mega Launcher." It hunches over from the additional weight, its eyes turn red, and its chin develops a small point. A Mega Blastoise is superior to a normal one both defensively and offensively, especially in the area of special attacks.

**Caterpie**

Caterpie may be found along Route 2 and in Santalune Forest in Kalos.

**Metapod**

Metapod may be found along Route 12 in Isshu-Unova (some of them migrate there just before they evolve from Caterpie) and in Santalune Forest in Kalos.

**Butterfree**

Butterfree may be found along Route 12 and in a Hidden Grotto in Pinwheel Forest in Isshu-Unova.

**Weedle**

Weedle may be found along Route 2 and in Santalune Forest in Kalos.

**Kakuna**

Kakuna may be found along Route 12 in Isshu-Unova (some of them migrate there just before they evolve from Weedle) and in Santalune Forest in Kalos.

**Beedrill**

Beedrill may be found along Route 12 and in a Hidden Grotto in Pinwheel Forest in Isshu-Unova.

**Pidgey**

Pidgey may be found along Routes 2 and 3 in Kalos. Their evolutions migrate away and cannot be found in Kalos.

**Rattata**

Rattata may be found in Castelia Park, the Castelia Sewers, and the Relic Passage in Isshu-Unova.

**Raticate**

Raticate may be found in the Relic Passage in Isshu-Unova. Any Rattata in Castelia City who evolve into Raticate are relocated by the city government.

**Fearow**

Fearow may be found along Route 15 in Isshu-Unova, and along Victory Road in Kalos, having migrated there after evolving from Spearow.

**Ekans**

Ekans may be found along Route 14 in Kalos; those in this area have developed a habit of traveling in small hordes to protect themselves.

**Arbok**

Arbok may be found along Route 19 in Kalos; they feel more self-confident after evolving, and so the hordes split up and make the journey individually.


	34. End Of Interlude I

**Pikachu**

Pikachu may be found along Route 3 and in Santalune Forest in Kalos, migrating away for other parts of their lifecycle.

**Sandshrew**

Sandshrew may be found at the Desert Resort and Relic Castle in Isshu-Unova.

**Sandslash**

Sandslash may be found along Route 18 and at the Relic Castle in Isshu-Unova, as well as along Route 18 and in Terminus Cave in Kalos, where they may migrate to after evolving.

**Nidoran (female) / Nidoran (male)**

Both genders of Nidoran may be found in White Forest and along Route 2 in a Hidden Grotto in Isshu-Unova, as well as along Route 11 in Kalos. The population along Route 11 has developed a habit of traveling in small hordes.

**Nidorina / Nidorino**

Nidorina and Nidorino may be found along Route 11 in Kalos. By this stage of their evolution they are more willing to explore by themselves.

**Cleffa**

Cleffa's type has recently changed to Fairy.

**Clefairy**

Clefairy's type has recently changed to Fairy. They may be found at the Giant Chasm in Isshu-Unova. They migrate away when it is time to reproduce.

**Clefable**

Clefable's type has recently changed to Fairy. They may be found at the Giant Chasm in Isshu-Unova. This population has a reputation for being curious about visiting trainers, and may give themselves away by rustling the grass in which they are hiding.

_Professor Kudzu sighed softly. Well, now he was caught up with the most recent research. Of course, in the world of Pokémon, what was cutting-edge today could be dull and outdated tomorrow, so he supposed he'd better knuckle down and get back to working on new material._

_Next were Vulpix and Ninetales…_

**End Of Interlude I**


End file.
